Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Check Out Enerpac PA136 Pa136 3000psi 36.6cu" Air Hydraulic Power Pump

Enerpac PA136 Pa136 3000psi 36.6cu" Air Hydraulic Power Pump Review


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Product Feature

  • Package Quantity: (1) Unit
  • Type: Air-Hydraulic
  • Air Requirements Pounds Per Square Inch: 60-100 psi Air at 9 CFM
  • Pressure Rating (psi): 3,000
  • Usable Oil Capacity: 36 cu. in.
  • Valve Function: Advance/Hold/Retract
  • Used With Cylinder(S): Single Acting
  • Oil Capacity: 36

Product Overview

Air Powered Hydraulic Pumps Type: Air-Hydraulic Air Requirements Pounds Per Square Inch: 60-100 psi Air at 9 CFM Pressure Rating (psi): 3,000 Usable Oil Capacity: 36 cu. in.

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Tuesday, June 28, 2011

What You Need to Know About Heating theory Fuel Consumption - Part 1

Do you want to learn exactly why your heating theory burns more fuel than it should? Of policy you do, or you wouldn't have found this article. Following are answers to the questions you have, or ones you didn't know you had. I will construe (in defined technical terms) how your heating theory is likely to be costing more to heat your home or commercial construction than it should and what you can do to sell out those costs.

Anyone who drives an automobile knows that confident cars use less gas than others. The same is true for heating tool and like gas-guzzling Suvs, some heating systems consume titanic amounts of fuel. The dissimilarity in the middle of cars and heating systems is cars offer many benefits beyond the primary one of transportation. Cars have performance, comfort and optic appeal, as well as can be a status symbol. Heating systems are tucked away in a basement, attic or closet and their execution and execution are a strangeness to most not in the Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning (Hvac) trade, and still a strangeness to many in the trade - so-called, "professionals" (a term I use loosely throughout this article).

3000 Psi

To clarify, I may interchange the acronym Hvac for heating, and vice versa, but this report is about heating systems, how they work and how they often burn immoderate amounts of "fuel" - gas or oil.

Most construction owners know how to set the thermostat, turn air filters and check the fuel level on their heating fuel tank gauge, but that is about the extent of their heating theory knowledge. Typically, construction owners do not want to know how their heating theory works; it seems too complex and futile. They prefer to leave the technical aspects to the service personnel they have come to trust. Did I say "trust"? There are many reasons to scrutinize your trust for your heating service company, fuel supplier and general contractor if you are having a new construction constructed - residential or commercial.

For starters, do not assume that the professional you hire to design, install, service or pronounce your heating theory is noteworthy to make all the right decisions in those respective aspects of the Hvac trade. Just as in most professions, heating professionals are often types who could care less about the quantity of fuel a heating theory ends up moving and costing its owner; their paycheck at the end of the week is more leading to them. The majority of Hvac tradesmen have never been to school to learn the innumerable facets of the interrelated technologies. Moreover, many have never accomplished high school! But let's not get personal. Mostly, tradesmen have gathered their knowledge straight through hands-on experience. Perceive comes in two flavors: good and bad. If the on-the-job-training has been with lousy 'teachers', then the student will be a lousy apprentice and graduate to becoming a hopelessly old dog incapable of learning new tricks.

It's not only ignorance and bad attitude that have a hand in your fuel-hungry heating appliance's performance, though I wish it were. Deliberate sales of terribly inefficient heating tool plays a huge role. Sadly to say, American made boilers and furnaces are among the least productive in the world and continued sales of them certify that fuel companies will find you to be a great buyer - you will buy more fuel! Greed will often lead to corruption, with most of the corrupt getting away with it. This is a significant theorize for my writing this expose.

I have no specific desire to be confrontational with specific companies, though I know them well, but I can't close my eyes any longer, knowing that we are all heading toward a dead-end with our consumption of natural resources. Fossil fuels are limited, they say the planet is heating up and polar bears' extinction in 50 years is all but inevitable. But the more we consume the more we strip forever from the planet its resources and the little is left to meet the needs of its inhabitants in the future. Must we consume until we've proved that the human species is the most insidious sponge the planet has ever known? Do we only take and put nothing back? At least we can take less of the fuel we use to heat our homes, businesses and industries and save money as we do it.

As a precursor to understanding how your heating theory works, it is significant to understand the basic terms used in the industry, so let's start with the business players, then we'll move on to dispelling the strangeness surrounding the more technical aspects.

Fuel companies - "Fuel" is a general term I use to cover any fossil fuel type such as, fuel oil, kerosene, natural and liquefied petroleum gas (Lpg), methane, butane and any other petroleum-based gas types that I may not have listed here. Distributors of these fuels have one goal: to sell ("market") as much fuel as they can, to whoever will buy it and for the highest price. Period! They do not have your best economic interests in mind. They are the customary petroleum giants, names emblazoned on tractor trailer tanks barreling down highways; large publicly traded utilities and your local fuel enterprise with warm 'friendly' ads in the media. Fuel companies have the most to gain by inefficiently designing, installing and servicing your heating equipment. They want to deliver as much fuel at each delivery stop as possible. I know, I used to deliver fuel when I worked for fuel companies in the early 1980s.

Hvac Contractors - "Hvac" is a general term that is often misused and misapplied. Businesses that go under this heading tend to get complex with the factory and service of many areas of the indoor climate operate realm, and it is a broad one! Not only does Hvac mean heating, ventilation and air conditioning, but also humidity control, indoor air potential and refrigeration. This player in the trade is likely to be more incompetent than fraudulent when it comes to accurately designing, installing and servicing heating equipment.

Plumbing & Heating (P&H) companies - Many heating consumers are groomed straight through the ages to believe that plumbers are the same as heating technicians - they are not. The only thing plumbing and heating have in common is in the way pipes are related - threaded, soldered (sweated), welded, glued (cemented), and more recently, compressed together with enterprise specific connection means. P & H types rarely have mastered heating technology. I can spot a plumber-installed heating theory instantly. It's one thing to be a scholar at piping, which many plumbers are, it's an additional one issue altogether to know how the piped heating theory works.

Handyman - Knows a little bit more than a homeowner about heating systems.

Heating Technicians - This is who you want to work on your heating system, but not necessarily one from a fuel company. Heating technicians work for fuel companies and gas utilities/suppliers. "Buyer beware!" Only half of these guys are noteworthy to do a good job on your system. Still, only 10% are de facto good, master-types who are rarely stumped and who see the big photo - the primary theory establish is clear to them, the service history pops out like forensic science and they can make your theory work with little or nothing to work with.

The aforementioned list is comprised of the acceptable players in the trade, but only fuel companies sell fuel, design, install and service heating equipment, which is not to propose that all fuel companies partake in all aspects of the heating trade, nor am I saying that all fuel companies defraud their customers, most do not.

The case for burning less fuel can be de facto made if every person went out on the ocean in a boat and saw the sickening depth of pollution in our climate stretching across the water as far as the eye can see. I live on the Atlantic side of the States and the prevailing winds blow off the land, bringing with it the smog generated across the country. Otherwise, watch a sunset and marvel at the orange and red hues, for they are the supervene of pollutants and particulates in the climate that taint the natural color of sunlight.

Let us scrutinize what goes into our climate and our lungs when we breathe, when fossil fuels are burned. The byproducts of combustion of gas types and fuel oil include, but are not little to:

1. Flue Gas

2. Carbon Dioxide

3. Nitrogen Oxide

4. Nitrogen Dioxide

5. Sulphur Dioxide

6. Soot

7. Carbon Monoxide

The exhausting of these compounds into the earth's climate occurs constantly across the globe and proportionately to the estimate of fuel burned by heating equipment, internal combustion engines and commercial processes. The more fuel we burn, the more we conduce to the blend pollution of our home - Earth. Why, then, burn more fuel than necessary?

The following terms and definitions deal directly with heating theory apparatus and components.
British Thermal Unit (Btu) - The estimate of vigor required to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. British Thermal Units are expressed as a ratio to time -Btus per hour (written btus/hr., or Mbh, where M=the Roman numeral for 1,000; B=Btus; H=Hour, so expressed as 1000s of btus/hr. All heating tool is rated in Btu heating capacity. A typical residential furnace has a heating capacity of 100,000 Btus and can heat a 3,000 square foot modern house. These are approximate numbers, of course. For an strict Btu requirement to heat a construction a Heat Loss Calculation must be conducted (see definition for Heat Loss Calculation). Flue - The passageways that direct the byproducts of combustion out of a heating appliance. Burner - These come in many types, but we will restrict our discussion to Gun-Type, Sealed Combustion and Atmospheric, as these are most likely the kind that are in residential and commercial buildings. Burners mix #2 fuel oil, kerosene, Lpg or Natural gas with climate (air), then ignite and operate the combustion of their respective fuel types. Gun type burners can be seen protruding from the fronts of boilers and furnaces and burn gas and oil. Atmospheric gas burners are like the gas burner under a water pot on a kitchen stove - they are open to the atmosphere. Water heaters, Furnaces and Boilers use atmospheric and gun-type burners. Sealed Combustion burners are as their title implies, the combustion process is sealed tightly from the climate in which they are installed, like a basement, attic or closet. Sealed combustion burners take their combustion air from the outdoors straight through a plastic pipe and vent their products of combustion to the outdoors straight through a second pipe, usually made of Pvc (polyvinylchloride) or stainless steel. Gun-type and atmospheric burners ordinarily vent to the outdoors straight through a chimney or mechanical venting means, called a "power-venter". While Atmospheric burners are easy and inexpensive, Sealed Combustion burners are much more complex and expensive. Atmospheric burners are mid efficiency types, whereas Sealed Combustion burners are high efficiency types. Combustion room - A combustion room or, simply, a room is approximately all the time part and parcel of heating appliances that use a gun-type burner, and is internal to a furnace or boiler. Inside the room is where the actual fire while combustion of fuels takes place. An consideration door or window allows a technician partial view of the combustion process inside the chamber. Boiler - A cast iron or steel heat-generating vessel that utilizes water as a heat replacement medium to warm a space to a desired temperature. Boilers couple a burner which facilitates the combustion of fuels. Boilers can comprise a chamber, but don't always. Furnace - A Furnace includes a burner, most likely a combustion chamber, a heat exchanger, a blower or fan and has ducts related to it. The blower pulls "return air" from the conditioned space straight through a "return duct" and pushes it across the non-flue gas side of the heat exchanger. Once the relatively cold return air comes into Perceive with the very hot heat exchanger, the moving air picks up heat and is propelled toward the busy space straight through the provide duct and out diffusers and registers placed in the rooms to be heated. For sake of reference, furnaces have replaceable air filters, boilers do not. Heat Exchanger - A expedient that transfers heat from one medium (fire and flue gas) to that of another. Flue gas contains heat which is transferred straight through a steel, cast iron, aluminum or stainless steel fence (prior to exiting the appliance and up the flue) into a heat replacement medium separated by the heat exchanger barrier. For sake of our discussion, air, water and steam are the heat replacement mediums relevant to this report that replacement the heat from combustion to space in the construction to be heated. Conditioned Space - The space within a construction - residential or commercial - that is to be heated or air conditioned. We will deal with heating a conditioned space in this article. Hydronics - Hot water or steam heating technology. Forced Hot Water (Fhw) - Fhw heating systems comprise boilers (or sometimes water heaters) related by pipes to heating "terminal units" like radiators, baseboard convectors, hot water coils in an airstream and radiant floor heating tubes embedded in floors. Forced hot water systems supervene gravity hot water (Ghw) systems that were coal fired back in the day of their favorite use. Water is heated in a boiler and is then circulated, or forced with a 'pump' straight through pipes connecting the boiler to the final units where heat is rejected to the space to be conditioned. The hot water temperature is lessened by the cooler room air that surrounds the final units and the water is returned to the boiler to be reheated and re-circulated in a continuous cycle that only stops when the room thermostat is satisfied by the increasingly heated air. Forced Hot Air (Fha) - As in Fhw, a heat exchanger inside a furnace takes the heat generated by the combustion of fuel and transfers it to the busy space of a building, but straight through the duct of heated air inside provide and return ducts. Forced Hot Air implies the utilization of a furnace, whereas Forced Hot Water uses a boiler. Steam - This theory is the "Hydronic" cousin of forced hot water. Both replacement heat straight through water or water vapor - steam. Both comprise boilers that replacement heat from the fuel combustion process to the heat replacement medium - water or steam. Both comprise pipes and final units. Steam is created when water in the boiler boils and converts to steam if it is continually heated. Imagine a pot of water on a burner. The stove burner (gas or electric) heats the pot of water above it. Left long sufficient above the heat, the water boils and vaporizes upward. In the boiler the vapor rises up in voluminous pipes onward to cast iron radiators or baseboard. Steam seeks balance with the atmosphere. Hot vapor has greater pressure than cooler air, so rushes for the nearest exit in a steam theory into the lower pressure climate in the conditioned space. Press the "Schrader" valve stem on your car tire and high pressure air rushes out into the lower pressure climate - it's the same with steam in a heating system. Strategically placed air vents on radiators and condensate return lines allow the air above the water line in a steam theory to be forced out of the theory straight through them, but stop as the steam comes into Perceive with their internal mechanisms. Steam is the least productive heating type, as the water temperature must be raised above 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Whereas, hot water systems water temperature can be modulated based on the outdoor ambient air temperature. The warmer it is outside, the less temperature is needed in forced hot water theory water. Heat pumps, electrically heated boilers and baseboard element, wood and coal-fired boilers and furnaces, solar and any other theory types not fired by petroleum products, are not included in this article. Limit operate - This operate is also referred to as an "aquastat" in Fhw systems and a "Fan & Limit operate in Fha systems. Hybrid hydronic systems - a steam boiler with a Fhw loop (zone) also couple Limit Controls. Limit controls can pronounce low temperature and high temperature thresholds in a heating system. Limit Controls come in many dissimilar types and have a myriad of applications that need a specific type of Limit Control. Limit Controls are often the expedient that cause immoderate fuel consumption and are selected for this theorize by unethical fuel companies so your theory burns the maximum estimate of fuel your heating theory can perhaps burn. You will want to check the type of Limit operate on your heating system! Read on to find out why. Nozzle - The expedient in an oil burner that meters a specific estimate of fuel straight through it and converts the liquid fuel into a vapor that can be facilely mixed with air and ignited. Nozzles have 3 means of categorization: the estimate of fuel that passes straight through it in gallons per hour (Gph) @ 100 pounds per square inch (Psi) of fuel pump pressure; the angle of oil vapor spray that comes out of its orifice; and the spray pattern - solid, hollow, or somewhere in between. Those specifications are written as an example like 1.00-80-B. This means 1 gallon of oil will pass straight through the nozzle at 100 Psi, 80 degrees is the vapor spray angle and "B" is code for solid. Too high a Gph and your oil burner will over-fire your furnace or boiler and start and stop too often - "short-cycle". Burner Orifice - Like in oil burners, gas burners have metering devices and these are called burner orifices or burner "spud". The wrong burner orifice in a gas theory can be deadly, as gas is explosive and when it is not burned properly and in the strict proportion to air the outcome can be inefficient and downright dangerous. Gas burners have at least one orifice but can have many, sometime too many, as you will see later in this article. Heat Loss Calculation - Software programs exist to accept data input relative to a building's establish characteristics like window and door types, sizes and U-values, structure insulation R-values, room sizes and internal heat gain like citizen and appliances. Once this information is entered into the schedule the software calculates how many Btus are needed on the coldest day of the year to heat the construction to a establish temperature say, 68 degrees. There are no strict short cuts to a heat loss calculation. Anytime a new heating theory is designed it must first be preceded by an strict heat loss calculation. For all things related to allowable tool and component sizing and option is based on Btu generating and/or carrying capacity. Pipe diameters are little in how many Btus of vigor they can transport with water as its heat replacement medium, just as duct sizes are little in how many Btus they can transport with air as the medium.Let's apply these technical terms. For starters, let's create a scenario - you want to build a new house. The first thing you do is interview any construction contractors who call themselves a general contractor (Gc). A competent Gc will give you a container price for construction of all aspects and systems in the new house. He will hire and carry on all subcontractors from the electrician, to the plumber to the roofer, and the Hvac contractor. These tradesmen are subcontractors to the Gc. The residential construction trade is an highly contentious one and the profit margins are slim. The Gc knows this, so hires the citizen he thinks will produce acceptable potential at the bottom price. Unfortunately, most Gcs are highly unaware of the significance of allowable heating theory establish and the information that needs to be considered to produce the most productive establish for the money. He is also unaware of the significant steps complex with cranking out a professional design. It is the establish that determines the cost. Gcs often look at the cost only. As long as the heating theory "works", then the Gc is happy, even though he will never know that the theory will consume a lot more fuel than if it was competently designed in the first place. In fact, nobody will ever know that is, until a true competent professional figures it out, but then it is usually too late. Most would rather spend more money on fuel than replace the incorrectly designed system.

What You Need to Know About Heating theory Fuel Consumption - Part 1

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Monday, June 27, 2011

Koi Pond - Liners Vs professional construction

Why is there so much talk about pond liners? Which ones are Uv protected, or stronger, or last longer? I am by no means an devotee on liner technology, nor have I ever used them in my 30 years of designing and building waterfalls. If you're a "liner guy" disciple, I'm sure you're thinking, "Oh no, here he goes." To tell the truth, I have been minding my own business for over two decades, just watching, reading and listening to all the "experts."

I've listened to how "pond liners are uncomplicated to install," and "pond liners are inexpensive compared to concrete and steel," and "pond liners are quick to install." Or "pond liners last for 50 years," "pond liners bring higher profits to pond building and waterfall construction," and "liners don't contaminate the water with alkali as does concrete construction." Yes, I've almost sold myself on listening to the facts of the "experts." Well, not quite, due to a few facts of my own.

3000 Psi

So, a pond liner is guaranteed for 40 to 50 years? I would have to agree with that, as long as you leave it in the box the whole time. Too bad a liner manufacturer's warranty doesn't include damage from gophers, ground squirrels, chipmunks, rats or mice. Or tree, plant and weed roots. Or from stretching and punctures in the liner due to heavy rocks and other sharp objects. anticipated fact: a puncture only the size of a pin hole can cause a pond to lose one drip per second, or 5 gallons in just 24 hours. That's a pin hole, not a hole made by a pair of buck teeth on a burrowing mammal.

Imagine along with me for a minute. You have spent 0 on a pond develop and then ,000 of your hard-earned money for a pond and waterfall. This water highlight is impressive. They dug a big hole, piled up some dirt at one end, draped a large rubber liner over the whole thing, and settled giant boulders all nearby the fish pond and on the dirt mound. Smaller rocks fill in between the boulder and added rocks cover the liner in the pond. Now, it's two years later and you've just come home from a two-week vacation to find the pond half empty (or half full, if you're a positive person).

There must be a leak! How did this happen? Where is it? No problem, you think, I remember the salesman's pitch: "If you should ever get a leak, just clean off the area nearby the hole, dry it off, and using the directions enclosed in the patching kit, apply this patching material." But there's only one problem: Where is the leak? or leaks? How do I find them? And if I do find them, and I'm flourishing in patching them up, what's to keep it from leaking again?

Okay, I'm going to snap my fingers and you'll wake up. "Snap!" Surprise! That was only a thinking practice with a happy ending. It wasn't real! Or was it? Actually, it was. The short story you just heard was true. One out of every eight projects we do involves replacing the leaky liner for an angry fish pond/leaky liner owner.

Why am I ultimately speaking up now, after 30 years and well over 2,000 waterfalls and fish ponds? Because I'm angry, too! Not at the "liner guy" who sells the pond liners, but at his disciples nearby the country who are bragging how much money they make in just one or two days. I'm not upset at the fact that they make in two days what takes me six to seven days to make in constructing my fish ponds of rebar and 3000 psi concrete.

My ire stems from having to fee ,000 to replace a ,000 liner pond that lasted only two years. (A pond liner with padding didn't stop a tree root which traveled 25 feet to do its destructive work.) For only an added 16% in cost, that client could still be enjoying his traditional pond, stress-free, for his lifetime and that of his children and grandchildren and great-grandchildren.

The main features touted by pond liner promoters are simplicity, low cost, quick installation, and highly high profits. In an article published in his catalog/magazine of liners and accessories, the "liner messiah" has obviously taught his disciples well, as you can read in this excerpt:

"If you hire us to install your pond, you get a option of buying it with or without a stream. We offer no other choices! The pond we build covers an area of 11 by 16 feet, has a maximum depth of 2 feet, and a gorgeous waterfall. We'll build your pond in one day. The basic pond costs ,100 and if you want to join together the falls with a stream, you're finding at an extra ,000. That's it. End of story. No mas."

That's what Ernie Selles, president of Patio Ponds and disciple of the "liner guy," said. Other quote from Ernie in the same catalog is, "I get out of bed every morning and look transmit to going to work in a way that I never had before." I noticed he didn't mention how well he slept.

Let's do the math on Ernie's installation. The pond, stream, and waterfall cost is ,100. The actual sell cost of the kit is only ,000. ,100 behalf for only one day of labor. Notice: unlike our package, they offer no lights, no autofill, and the pond is only two feet deep. Yet three feet minimum are required for koi fish. A two foot pond affords no safety from predators such as raccoons and herons, and the shallow depth is affected assuredly by rapid climatic characteristic changes, causing undue stress on the pond's inhabitants. They do not like to develop ponds over two feet deep, because they are more susceptible to cave-ins.

We would build the same pond with a depth ranging from 3 to 4 feet, with no shallows for dining predators. It is constructed of rebar 18 inches on center with a shell of 3000 psi concrete (sidewalks and driveways are typically 2000 psi). This 7-sack, 60% pea with fiber mix is so dense that it's waterproof. However, we still coat it with ThoroSeal. The pond is qualified with two anti-vortex bottom suction drains, a skimmer to take off covering debris, and an out-of-pond pump that produces 5000 gallons per hour at only 2.6 amps, compared to the liner guy's pumps which are only 4200 gallons per hour at 7.6 amps - over twice the cost of energy! In addition, you have to pull his heavy cast iron monster pump out of the water to clean out debris.

We would also include a state of the art Aqua Ultraviolet filter and Uv light - the best money can buy. The liner guy's filter needs to be disassembled in order to clean it by hand. The Ultima Ii filter requires the uncomplicated turn of a handle to back flush the debris. This system has been operational in my water features for ten years with no problems. We include an ultraviolet light in our system that kills the bacteria that generate smells, kills pathogens that cause disease and algae spores that turn the water green. This light has a wiper arm that cleans the internal lens without the need to open the light.

We also offer an self-operating electronic water level operate system, the "AquaFill" by Aquamedia Corp. That keeps the water level of the pond constant. Pond liner installers use floats that are mechanical like the float in a toilet tank. Mechanical fillers can corrode and stick, causing overflows and even poisoning the fish with excess chlorinated water. However, the AquaFill does not stick or corrode.

Not only are all our ponds designed a minimum of three feet deep, we build caves for the turtles and fish to hide in. With pond liner construction, rocks cannot be cemented to the liner and consequently many are loose, creating a hazard if person were to step on them. Kids will be kids and I promise they will at last be running up and down the falls. We have no loose rock because they are all cemented in place with Aquamedia Mortar Mix, which is not only three times stronger than quarterly mortar, it is very dense. As a result, alkali will not leach out into the water and generate a pH problem. quarterly mortar mix is porous and water passes straight through the joints of the rock, carrying with it cement residue. This in turn creates stain trails high in pH, assuredly poisoning the fish.

In conclusion, as an educated customer, would you pay ,100 for a rubber pond liner or spend the same whole or a exiguous more to get a shell made of concrete and steel that not only would never leak, but would last for decades. So what are we as contractors finding for? Exorbitant profits or peace of mind with long-term, happy clients?

It is more enjoyable for me to get a call eight years down the road from a content client than to get a complaint of a leaky pond. What does the "liner guy" disciple say? "Sorry, we only have a one year warranty"? Or do they go back and take off all the rocks, pull out the pond liner, clean it, repair the leaks, and replace all the rocks and tool at no cost? Liners or expert installations?

You say pond liners are professionally installed. Then why is the very same liner kit sold to homeowners and do-it-yourselfers? The imagine is, it doesn't take an experienced expert to install one. All you need is "a organery hose and a shovel"!

Look before you leap, and ponder before you weep. Happy koi, peace and joy.

Koi Pond - Liners Vs professional construction

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Sunday, June 26, 2011

Check Out Simpson PowerShot PS4240S 4,200 PSI Honda GX390 Commercial Gas Powered Heavy Duty Pressure Washer for $999.99

Simpson PowerShot PS4240S 4,200 PSI Honda GX390 Commercial Gas Powered Heavy Duty Pressure Washer Review


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Product Feature

  • Triplex pump design with ceramic pistons, adjustable unloader and thermal relief valve
  • 5 Quick connect nozzles: 0,15,25,40,soap
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Simpson PowerShot PS4240S 4200 psi commercial gas pressure washer features Honda GX390 engine, tx series pump and quick connect steel lance.

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Saturday, June 25, 2011

Check Out AR Triplex Plunger Gas Flange, XMV3G30D, 3.0 GPM, 3000 PSI, 3400 RPM, 1" Shaft Ready Made Pressure Washer Pump

AR Triplex Plunger Gas Flange, XMV3G30D, 3.0 GPM, 3000 PSI, 3400 RPM, 1" Shaft Ready Made Pressure Washer Pump Review


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  • Triplex Plunger Pump Made Ready for easy replacement.
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Thursday, June 23, 2011

Great Price NorthStar Electric Cold Water Pressure Washer - 3000 PSI, 2.5 GPM, 230 Volt

NorthStar Electric Cold Water Pressure Washer - 3000 PSI, 2.5 GPM, 230 Volt Review


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  • 5 HP Leeson motor operates on dedicated 230V/30A circuit
  • Direct drive Cat 3DX pump w/brass manifold and ceramic plungers
  • Forged brass manifold gives improved strength over cheaper aluminum
  • Easy Start stops pressure build-up during start-up
  • Adjustable pressure for job versatility

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The NorthStar electric cold water pressure washer provides the power you need for cleaning pavement, siding, deck maintenance and general-purpose cleaning with the quick-couple nozzle and soap nozzle. Rear hose-entry spray gun with split lance keeps the hose out of the way for easy handling. 25 feet of high-pressure hose gives you great range. Direct-drive pump features brass manifold and ceramic plungers. U.S.A. Pressure (PSI): 3,000, Flow (GPM): 2.5, Motor: Leeson, HP: 5, Volts: 230, Amps: 30, Pump: Cat 3DNX, Drive: Direct, Gun: Consumer rear entry with 3ft. lance, Nozzle Type: Quick-connect 25deg and soap nozzle, Orifice Size: 3.0, Hose: 25ft. gray high-pressure, Coupler Size (in.): 3/8, Cart: push down cart with 10 pneumatic tires, Power Cord (ft.): 36ft. with GFCI protection, Max. Inlet Water Temp (deg F): 140, Chemical Injector: Yes, Adjustable Pressure: Yes, Pump Oil Type: SAE30 non-detergent oil, Pump Oil Included: Yes, Thermal Protector: Yes, Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 33 7/8 x 21 1/4 x 38

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Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Great Price NorthStar Professional Pressure Washer - 3000 PSI, 2.5 GPM, Model# 1578173

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  • Forged brass manifold gives improved strength over cheaper aluminum

Product Overview

NorthStar professional pressure washer combines industrial Honda engines with a premium-quality NorthStar direct drive triplex pump. Professional pressure washer is designed by Northern engineers to meet the demands of the professional and rental markets. Rear hose-entry spray gun with split lance keeps the hose out of the way for easy handling. Includes a long-lasting, non-marking steel-braided rubber hose. Pressure (PSI): 3,000, Flow (GPM): 2.5, Engine: Honda, Engine Model: GX160 OHV, Engine Displacement (cc): 163, Gross Torque: 7.6, Pump: NorthStar triplex, Drive: Direct, Gun: Industrial rear entry with 3ft. lance, Nozzle Type: Quick-connect 0deg , 15deg , 25deg , 40deg and soap nozzle, Orifice Size: 3, Hose: 50ft. gray high-pressure, Coupler Size (in.): 3/8, Cart: Push down with 10 pneumatic tires, Fuel Capacity (gal.): 0.83, Max. Inlet Water Temp (deg F): 140, Max. Output Water Temp (deg F): 140, Fuel Type: Gasoline, Chemical Injector: Yes, Adjustable Pressure: Yes, Engine Oil Type: SAE30 motor oil, Pump Oil Type: SAE30 non-detergent oil, Engine Oil Included: No, Pump Oil Included: Yes, Low Oil Shutdown: Yes, Thermal Protector: Yes, Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 34 x 21 x 38

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Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Pressure Washer Reviews - My Top 3 Recommendations

Out in the shop today, there are hundreds of dissimilar models of pressure washers. Here I will characterize three of my personal beloved models and brands.

My #3 Choice: Campbell Hausfeld Pw181000Av

3000 Psi

This characterize focuses on a very reliable and tough model. The Campbell Hausfeld is a good option to use at home. Powered by an electric motor, it pollutes less and is not as costly to maintain. From all of the home-consumer pressure washers found on the market, this one stands out for being mighty sufficient to fulfill most of the home owner's cleaning tasks, especially car washing and driveway cleaning. This model uses a extra motor, which is better than the regular acceptable motors used in most household power washers, and is capable of delivering up to 1800 psi if desired.

My #2 Choice: Karcher 2600 Psi (Gas-Cold Water) Pressure Washer w/ Honda Engine

The name Karcher is synonymous with good ability and reliability. This gas powered pressure washer comes with a gas motor capable of delivering 2.3 gallons per dinky at 2600 psi. With its power, it is excellent for most household cleaning requirements, like washing vehicles, brightening wood, clean sidings and removing stains from concrete or sidewalks. The 161cc Honda motor is very easy to start and maintains power well. It has two wheels and a handle to move around easily. Its small size allows it to fit in most store rooms, and it has an on-board detergent tank, which saves the need to haul around an extra bucked.

My #1 Choice: Ridgid Rd80701

Many agree that the ability of a pressure washer can be measured by the length of its warranty and the ability of its pump. This pressure washer is very definite and is excellent on both accounts, packing a Subaru Ohv pump, which meets California's literal, emissions requirements and is capable of delivering a flow of 2.6 gallons per dinky at an incredible 3000 psi, sufficient to get rid of the toughest stains or even capable of peeling paint. This washer was undoubtedly made to last a long time.

Pressure Washer Reviews - My Top 3 Recommendations

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Monday, June 20, 2011

What Is A High Pressure Pump And What Are Its Uses?

A high pressure pump is broadly defined as any pump that can originate high dismissal pressure, commonly in excess of 800 psi. That originate pressures between 800 and 3000 psi are known as moderate pressure pumps, while pumps that originate everywhere between 3000 psi and 5000 psi are known as very high pressure pumps. Apart from these pressure levels, there is another class of pressure pumps known as ultra pressure pumps that originate pressures significantly in excess of 5000 psi.

Common types of pump used for applications are reciprocating positive displacement pumps, particularly plunger pumps, which are capable of handling applications easily. Though in many cases pistons are also used with pumps, they are usually used only for applications that wish working pressures below 1000 psi. One common type of positive displacement pump used for applications is the triplex plunger pump that consist of three plungers driven by a single prime mover. The parallel use of three plungers gives the triplex pump a dismissal for every 120 degrees rotation of the prime mover. another similar type of reciprocating pump that performs pressure pumping duties is the quintuplex plunger pump, which is, as the name suggests with four plungers driven by a single prime mover. Quintuplex plunger pumps and triplex pumps are commonly known as power pumps and commonly found in pressure applications.

3000 Psi

A gismo that has found extensive adoption in high pressure applications is the hydraulically driven intensifier or amplifier. These devices use hydraulic pressure to significantly increase the pressure of the fluid being pumped. The intensifier consists of a common rod connecting two pistons with different bore sizes. When hydraulic fluid acts on the larger piston, it causes the smaller piston to be moved. Depending on the direction in which the smaller piston is moved by the hydraulic piston, it whether takes suction or pressurizes and discharges the working fluid at very high pressure. There are two types of intensifiers and based on their construction and working, they are termed single shot intensifiers and reciprocating intensifiers. A single shot intensifier consists of one large hydraulic actuator piston and a single, smaller, pressure piston - both related by a common piston rod. When the large piston is moved, it makes the smaller piston move and fluid dismissal takes place. When the larger piston is returned to its original position, by a spring or air-retraction, the smaller piston moves back, taking in the suction.

What Is A High Pressure Pump And What Are Its Uses?

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Sunday, June 19, 2011

How to take ability galvanic Power Washing Machines

There are two types of galvanic power washer machines: completely galvanic machines and partially galvanic machines.

Completely galvanic machines use electricity for all aspects of their operation. In other words, these machines use electricity to generate both climatic characteristic and pressure levels. On the other hand, partial galvanic machines use electricity only for generating yield pressure. Such machines use a heating element fueled by propane, heating oil, kerosene, diesel, or natural gas for generating yield temperature.

3000 Psi

The best galvanic power washer machines for areas without ventilation are the ones that use electricity to generate both climatic characteristic and pressure levels. However, one pitfall of such machines is that they can only achieve high hot water temperatures. For more demanding applications where steam is required, pressure washers powered by electricity yet fueled by the methods discussed above are often used.

The following tips will help you select the best machines as well as to settle on favorable machines for different cleaning tasks.

Things to Understand When choosing galvanic Machines

Electric power washer machines are best for indoor cleaning jobs for many reasons. These machines do not yield any exhaust fumes. In gas pressure washers, exhaust is produced by the combustion of fossil fuels. Since completely galvanic machines do not use any fossil fuels, these machines yield precisely no exhaust and thus are clean and virtually odorless. However, galvanic powered and fuel heated machines still gift a virtually exhaust-free cleaning experience. It is machines powered by gasoline, propane, and diesel that generate exhaust which makes indoor carrying out without allowable ventilation unsafe.

In addition, galvanic machines are quiet to operate. This highlight is especially desirable while using an galvanic power washer for indoor cleaning jobs where noise is a prime concern, as in schools, nursing homes, hospitals, and other applications.

In addition, it is relatively easy to find galvanic outlets in indoor settings, thus an power source is relatively available. All these make these machines best fine for indoor cleaning tasks.

Required carrying out in presence to a source of electricity does not mean these machines are not favorable for outdoor cleaning jobs. galvanic powered machines can be used outdoor if there is an electrical supply available or with the use of a generator.

Output Pressure

The pressure level determines the yield power of a pressure washing machine, and can range from 750 psi to 8000 psi, depending upon the model. For lighter applications, machines with an yield pressure level of less than 1000 psi are advised. For moderate level cleaning tasks, machines with pressure levels between 1000 psi and 3000 psi are suitable. For heavy duty market cleaning jobs, machines should have a pressure level of 3000 psi or more.

One can find products such as 1400 psi galvanic pressure washer, 1600 psi galvanic pressure washers, and 3000 psi pressure washers. Each machine is favorable for single cleaning tasks. For example, a 1400 psi galvanic pressure washer offers the ideal specifications for auto detailing, while a 1600 psi galvanic pressure washers might damage the desist of the automobile.

Other Specifications

Pressure level is not the only factor that influences the power of pressure cleaners. Other prominent specifications of a pressure washer consist of yield climatic characteristic and flow rate. The best galvanic power washers, which use electricity to heat the output, supply an yield climatic characteristic of up to 210�F. Those systems that use other heating method can reach steam temperatures up to 330�F. Many are also tri-mode machines that consist of cold water, hot water, and steam temperatures for maximum versatility.

Flow rate, which indicates the quantity of water yield per minute, can vary from 0.4 Gpm to 8 Gpm. Normally higher pressure levels indicate higher flow rates. In some cases, one requires an galvanic power washer with low flow rate. For example, if the drainage or water run-off facilities are poor, then the best galvanic power washers are the ones with a low flow rate.

If you are inspecting the buy of an galvanic power washer, you should also check the types of technologies used in the machine. Features such as automatic shutoff can be very convenient, depending on your single cleaning needs.

To find the most technologically advanced, powerful, and durable pressure washing machines, consult a reputable online jobber to discuss your needs.

How to take ability galvanic Power Washing Machines

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Friday, June 17, 2011

movable Car Washing - "What Psi and Gpm Do I Need For Optimum Efficiency?" He Asked

If you want to run an effective mobile car wash business, there a few things you need to know. Not long ago I was asked a very good query by just such a car cleaning specialist. He wanted to know what pressure rating, Psi or pounds per quadrate inch and what Gpm (Gallons per Minute) would be the most effective in his operations? Let's take a look at this because this is a very prominent question.

We all the time chose the 4.5 gallons per minute, 10-12 hp skid units, later we went to 5 Gpm and 17 Hp, then many franchisees as they bought supplementary units for more market work went 3500 Psi and 22-25 Hp.

3000 Psi

You see, if you are doing absolutely big jobs you going to need more water, giving you more cleaning units, and they also control hydro-twister type attachments much better. For those you need 6 to 7 gallons per wee to absolutely run optimum, and you can clean concrete about as fast as you can walk, like mowing a lawn with a expert grade lawn mower with sharp blades and state-of-the-art technology.

Nevertheless, when it comes to ageement cleaning, it is all the time an issue with water supply. If you have a big flat bed trailer with a 500 - 1000 gallon tank you can get away with using more gallons per minute. We had our units set up where we could take the 4.5 gallons per minute, adjust the theory to put out only two or 3 gallons per wee under 1500 Psi for clean cars, and then ramping it up to 3000 Psi at 4.5 gallons per wee when we are cleaning trucks.

Some of our units had dual hoses and dual wands for cleaning lots of cars on car lots, in this case we would bypass the coils, and divide the water, that way each of the wands/guns got 2.25 gallons per minute. But to voice the right pressure you have to swap out the tips at the end of the guns they don't let as much water out.

And after a while it gets fairly complicated, so you need an operator that knows what they are doing, and you can't lose the tips, which does happen with quick disconnects malfunctioning, bad O'rings (remember the Space Shuttle) sometimes they pop off, especially over time as the quick disconnect brass fittings fail, and even the stainless steel quick disconnects don't last forever.

These are certainly wear-able parts, have spares with you in your glove box or tool box, and o'rings, extra-tips, or "you'll be sorry later" guaranteed! No one likes soggy socks and shoes when pressure washing - be prepared, be Usmc tough.

So, in summary;

If you're going to wash trucks go with 4.5 gallons per wee and 3000 Psi with attended 12 hp skid unit on a hot-water pressure washer.

If you are going to just clean cars, go with a 5.0 hp Honda motor with a normal pump and do your work at in the middle of 1500 and 2200 Psi - and look for water volumes of 2.4 gallons per minute, 23 gallons per minute.

movable Car Washing - "What Psi and Gpm Do I Need For Optimum Efficiency?" He Asked

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Thursday, June 16, 2011

Great Price All Power America APW5102 3,000 psi 6.5 HP OHV Gas-Powered Pressure Washer

All Power America APW5102 3,000 psi 6.5 HP OHV Gas-Powered Pressure Washer Review


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Product Feature

  • 2.7 GPM maximum water flow
  • Five quick connect spray nozzles (0?, 15?, 25?, 40?, soap)
  • Maintenance-Free brass pump features a thermal relief valve
  • 30' 5/16" high pressure hose with quick connect coupling
  • Non-CARB Compliant/Not For Sale In California

Product Overview

This gas pressure washer from All-Power America is a great choice for keeping the fleet clean. Pressure (PSI): 3,000, Flow (GPM): 2.7, Engine Model: 6.5 HP OHV, Pump: Brass, Nozzle Type: Adjustable: 0deg , 15deg , 25deg , 40deg , soap, Pump Oil Type: SAE 30W nondetergent, Low Oil Shutdown: Yes, Thermal Protector: Yes

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Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Great Price Karcher G 3025 OH 3,000 PSI 2.5 GPM 187cc Honda GC190 Gas Powered Pressure Washer With 25-Foot Hose

Karcher G 3025 OH 3,000 PSI 2.5 GPM 187cc Honda GC190 Gas Powered Pressure Washer With 25-Foot Hose Review


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Product Feature

  • Commercial grade pump with brass head
  • Ergonomic rust resistant wand assembly with quick connector
  • Pneumatic tires and wheel placement make it easy to maneuver
  • 25-foot by 1/4-inch hose
  • Thermal relief valve extends pump life

Product Overview

Includes 3,000 PSI 2.5 GPM Gas Pressure Washer - G 3050 OHR, 25 ft. High Pressure Hose, Commercial-Grade Zinc-Plated Spray Wand with Quick Connect Adapter, Commercial-Grade Trigger Gun with Child Safety Lock, Detergent Hose, Pro-Style Quick Connect Nozzles (0 degree, 15 degree, 25 degree, 40 degree, 65 degree)

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Saturday, June 11, 2011

Check Out Hp Hose Dn6-25ft, 3000 Psi KARCHER/91623280

Hp Hose Dn6-25ft, 3000 Psi KARCHER/91623280 Review


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Product Feature

  • 91623280, 9.162-328.0 Karcher 25' Replacement High Pressure Hose
  • Male quick connect plugs at each end
  • This is a plastic coated hose
  • Fits Karcher units G 3025 BH (G3025BH), G 2600 VH (G2600VH) with standard 3/8" Male Quick Connects (plugs)

Product Overview

Hp Hose Dn6-25ft, 3000 Psi KARCHER/91623280

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Friday, June 10, 2011

What Makes electric Pressure Washers great Than Gas-Powered?

The use of electric power washer machines is fast gaining popularity among maintenance professionals. Power cleaners that run on electricity are regularly classified according to their pressure levels and flow rates. Light-duty pressure cleaning machines designed for normal cleaning jobs come with pressure levels of around 1000 psi and flow rates of 2 Gpm. On the other hand, qualified versions created for tough, commercial cleaning applications feature pressure levels of 3000 psi and flow rates of 5 Gpm. Hot water and steam temperature options also help take off dirt and debris.

Leading suppliers now offer high-grade versions of pressure washing equipment empowered with lively technologies. Here is a look at some of the quality aspects available in these exquisite electric power washer systems:

3000 Psi

Powerful, top-grade heating coils enable power cleaning units to eject steam at temperatures of up to 330°F. This super-hot steam precisely softens tough stains, greasy deposits and hardened dirt. The housing of quality power cleaners is steel powder coated, chemical unyielding and chip-resistant. Heating coils in the best pressure cleaning products should be agenda 80 heating coils or comprised of stainless steel.

Abiding by these quality standards will enable productive use of your engine for a prolonged distance of time.

Electric vs. Gas Versions

Both gas-powered and electric power washers units offer superb cleaning power. However, many professionals prefer electric powered systems. This is because electric offer a estimate of advantages professionals look for in a pressure washer. Here is a look at what makes electric pressure cleaning machines versatile machines:

Compact and portable: Since electric pressure washers do not come with fuel tanks like gas-powered versions, they are smaller, lightweight and thus more portable.
Low maintenance costs: Fuel-powered pressure cleaning units such as propane pressure washer systems and gas-powered systems need regular maintenance. For instance, gas power washing products incur maintenance jobs such as replacing air filters, draining oil, tuning up ignition and replacing exhaust manifolds. electric versions do not need any such maintenance and thus saves you a good estimate in maintenance costs.
Clean, 'green' cleaning: electric pressure washer systems do not use fuel and thus do not originate carbon fumes. That makes it a clean, eco-friendly cleaning option. Propane pressure washers and gas-powered units can originate exhaust fumes that can be harmful to the user when used indoors without allowable ventilation.
Reduced noise: Pressure washers that run on gas furnish up to 85 decibels of sound while in operation. In comparison, electric versions function much more quietly. This makes electric pressure cleaner products convenient for maintaining indoor areas.

To sum up, electric power washer machines are here to stay. They feature the exquisite aggregate of exquisite construction, high-grade components, productive cleaning technologies, user-friendly operation, protection aspects and green cleaning technique. Check out the websites of leading distributors to understand more about these versatile cleaning systems.

What Makes electric Pressure Washers great Than Gas-Powered?

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Thursday, June 9, 2011

Great Price WSI Surface Cleaner - 3000 PSI, Model# FC 260

WSI Surface Cleaner - 3000 PSI, Model# FC 260 Review


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Product Feature

  • Plastic housing with ABS swivel brass nozzle

Product Overview

Use this 3000 PSI WSI surface cleaner to clean out those tight corners, nooks and crannies. Shown with gun/lance Item# 31915, sold separately. Made in Germany. Cleaning Width (in.): 11, Max. PSI: 3,000, GPM: 2 5/8, Material: Plastic, Caster Type: Rubber, Temperature Capacity (deg F): 150

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Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Check Out Pressure Pro EE3030A Heavy Duty Professional 3,000 PSI 3.0 GPM 26 Amp 230 Volt Electric Powered Pressure Washer With AR Pump for $1,529.95

Pressure Pro EE3030A Heavy Duty Professional 3,000 PSI 3.0 GPM 26 Amp 230 Volt Electric Powered Pressure Washer With AR Pump Review


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Product Feature

  • Powerful 26 Amp, 230 Volt Motor for commercial power and durability
  • AR Triplex plunger pump
  • Thermo Sensor prevents overheating in bypass mode
  • Professional quality insulated gun and wand assembly with 5 quick connect nozzles and 50 feet of non-marking, steel re-enforced high pressure hose
  • Strong aluminum frame without any welds to fail

Product Overview

Pressure Pro EE3030A Professional 3000 PSI Electric Pressure Washer has revolutionary aircraft grade aluminum frame with dual handles. It can push 3 gallons per minute and has a 6 HP engine. The 50 mesh inlet filter protects the engine from any unwanted dirt and has an easy to adjust pressure unloader and a low oil indicator automatic shut down process for safety and longevity. This 230 Volt unit includes a 12-Inch cord. The pneumatic tires are great for any surface with dual padded shock absorbing feet. The commercial grade engines provide long lasting run time and includes a thermo sensor to prevent overheating the unit.

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Monday, June 6, 2011

Check Out Suttner Dual Turbo Nozzles - 3000 PSI, 36in. Length

Suttner Dual Turbo Nozzles - 3000 PSI, 36in. Length Review


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Product Overview

36in. twin lance has 2 turbo nozzles to give you twice as much power! Clean everything in half the time! 1/4in. inlet and 1/4in. outlet. Max. PSI: 3,000, GPM: 6, Max. Temperature ( deg F): Cold water only, Inlet Size (in.): 1/4, Outlet Diameter (in.): 1/4, Nozzle Size (in.): 3.0, Length (in.): 36

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Sunday, June 5, 2011

Your Power Pressure Washer Buying Tips - Psi Gpm and Cu

Power Pressure Washers are getting more beloved for household and market use in recent years, but whenever one searches online or at the local neighborhood hardware store, one is often confused by all the acronyms like Psi, Gpm and Cu. The worst part is that most would naturally go by guessing what these interpretations mean, being too shy to admit that they do not know. Here, we will arm you with the needful knowledge to let you confidently shop without confusion.

Psi or pounds per quadrate inch is used to describe the cleaning pressure a pressure washer delivers. This essentially means pressure power and it is prominent to note that the higher it gets, the greater the pressure it exerts and hence the greater power consumed. You will find that Psi is the most beloved tag that is used together with any model description. This gives you, the buyer, a good perspective of how qualified the machines are relative to each other.

3000 Psi

Gpm or gallons per dinky refers t the actual water flow or the spray rate of the unit nozzle. This naturally means water usage. It is good to note that with a higher number, you will incur greater water consumption. Some manufacturers do contribute this information together with the model description for clarity.

Cu which means cleaning units is naturally a composition of Psi x Gpm which, to some, gives best perspective on total utility consumption as an overview.

Balance up the both Psi and Gpm, compromise one for the other and your utility bills will not be overtaxed. All the time understand your own cleaning needs and never fall for the sales pitch at the store. To guide you along, here is a short guide on what type of power pressure washers are suitable for respective tasks. For home use such as cleaning of grills, lawn furniture, car washing, sidewalks, driveways, select units of 1,200 to 2,000 Psi. For larger home cleaning tasks like the patios, balconies, decks, sidings and dismissal of very stubborn waxy grease and grim, use units with 2,000 to 3,000 Psi. And if you are finding for market units for your pressure washing business, select machines with 2,200 to 3,500 Psi for more demanding cleaning projects.

Always remember that that you must know your own cleaning needs in order to select the right power pressure washer to suit the tasks at hand.

Your Power Pressure Washer Buying Tips - Psi Gpm and Cu

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Saturday, June 4, 2011

Great Price 309515003 3000psi PRESSURE WASHER HORIZONTAL PUMP

309515003 3000psi PRESSURE WASHER HORIZONTAL PUMP Review


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Product Feature

  • Measurements:
  • 3/4" shaft 1 9/16" deep
  • Mounting holes are 2 5/8" center to center squared
  • Will work up to 3000 PSI

Product Overview

REPLACEMENT HORIZONTAL PRESSURE WASHER PUMP FOR GENERAC EXCELL - Max 3000psiMeasurements:3/4" shaft 1 9/16" deepMounting holes are 2 5/8" center to center squaredWill work up to 3000 PSI

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Friday, June 3, 2011

Check Out Karcher Shark CB-353007A 3,000 PSI 3.5 GPM 230 Volt Electric Commercial Series Pressure Washer for $2,899.99

Karcher Shark CB-353007A 3,000 PSI 3.5 GPM 230 Volt Electric Commercial Series Pressure Washer Review


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Product Feature

  • Cold Water, Belt Drive
  • Electric Powered
  • Commercial Series
  • Fully enclosed design for Wash bay/kitchen application
  • Many Factory installed options available

Product Overview

Electric powered Pressure washer. Cabinet design unit is ideal for kitchens and wash bays. This unit will take heated water up to 180 degrees F. It is protected in a durable steel cabinet with industrial strength throughout. ETL certified to UL and CSA safety standards this unit comes with a belt drive Karcher crankcase pump rated at 3.5 GPM at 3000 PSI also comes with a Industrial Baldor motor at 7.5 HP Electric 230V 36amp for long trouble free life. Warranty: 7 year pump, 1 year parts

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Thursday, June 2, 2011

Check Out NorthStar 3000 PSI Variable Pressure Washer Nozzle

NorthStar 3000 PSI Variable Pressure Washer Nozzle Review


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Product Overview

Adjustable spray pattern from 0deg to 80deg , plus high and low pressures. Stainless steel orifice. Thread Size (in.): 1/4, Material: Stainless steel, Degree of Angle ( deg ): 0 to 80, Includes (qty.): 1

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Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Check Out Karcher Shark SGP-353037E 3,000 PSI 3.5 GPM Honda Gas Powered Hot Water Commercial Series Pressure Washer for $6,595.00

Karcher Shark SGP-353037E 3,000 PSI 3.5 GPM Honda Gas Powered Hot Water Commercial Series Pressure Washer Review


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Product Feature

  • Hot Water, Direct Drive
  • Gas Powered/Diesel Heated
  • Commercial Series
  • Portable 4 Wheel Cart
  • Stainless Steel Coil Wrap

Product Overview

Portable self contained hot water pressure washer. This portable gas powered pressure washer is built using heavy duty components and rugged steel chassis to withstand the most rigorous conditions. Its compact frame design and tubed pneumatic wheels provide easy maneuvering in all types of terrain. It is ETL certified and comes with a leak free schedule 80 heating coil surrounded by a stainless steel wrap. It has a direct drive pump rated at 3.5 GPM at 3000 PSI and comes with a 11HP Honda Engine with Electric start for fast starts and long life. Warranty: 7 year pump, 1 year parts, 3 year coil

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