Sunday, July 31, 2011

Great Price NorTrac Heavy-Duty Welded Cylinder - 3000 PSI, 2in. Bore, 10in. Stroke

NorTrac Heavy-Duty Welded Cylinder - 3000 PSI, 2in. Bore, 10in. Stroke Review


Click To Buy Best Price from Amazon

Product Feature

  • NorTrac cylinder fits anywhere a traditional tie-rod cylinder fits
  • Compact design takes up less room
  • Welded design uses higher quality materials
  • Standard 3/8in. NPT port adapts to existing hydraulic system
  • Rod is chrome-plated and highly resistant to wear and corrosion

Product Overview

This heavy-duty NorTrac Welded Cylinder delivers the power of a tie-rod cylinder in a compact, long-lasting design that handles continuous loads of 3000 PSI. This feature-filled cylinder sports a ground and polished hard chrome-plated, cold rolled steel rod and a rugged AISI 1045 steel clevis ends for superior toughness. It offers a Hallite piston and rod seals and a precision honed 1/4in. steel tube cylinder wall that is 33% thicker than common tie-rod cylinders. Combine these world-class features and NorTrac's commitment to superior engineering and manufacturing processes and you have a cylinder that will deliver power and performance for the long term. Max. PSI: 3,000, Bore Diameter (in.): 2, Stroke Length (in.): 10, Closed Pin Center (in.): 20 1/4, Shaft Diameter (in.): 1.125

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Thursday, July 28, 2011

5 Tips for Cleaning Pavers

You may have brick, concrete or limestone pavers on your patio, driveway or practically any area that requires gorgeous landscaping. Cleaning pavers is a chore that complements its presence. Since these typically are areas that hold the first impression, you may want to ensure that they are maintained in pristine condition. The good you assert them, the good they would look. When maintained in good condition, they heighten the look of the place they adorn. This record discusses some quick tips you could ensue for wholesome pavers.

Tips to ensue while cleaning pavers

3000 Psi

When your pavers look dirty and have moss on them, you can clean them without manufacture use of any harsh chemicals that are risky to the environment. Not only is this safe, it is also easy and quick. A high pressure cleaner can be used with salt added to water while spraying. Although you can purchase such a cleaner for yourself for practically 0, it is always good to hire the services of a professional cleaning service company.

In such cases, you may want to recognize the kind of products that they use. Natural formulae are preferred to chemical usage.

Brick pavers are quite a beloved selection but these are susceptible to mold, oil and food stains. Mold can make pavers slick when they become wet. Power washing (as already discussed) is an productive means but pressure higher than 3000 psi is not recommended. Such high pressure can cause extreme damage to brick pavers. Cleaning mold while they grow offers good results.

Bleach explication can be used but one part bleach should be mixed with ten parts water. This explication can then be applied with a stiff bristle brush and later scrubbed. Bleach can cause permanent discoloration to some extent and hence you may want to try it in some less confident angle before applying it everywhere. Stains that have been caused by petrol or oil products wish usage of commercial cleaners or services of a professional.

When the stains are not so heavy, cleaning pavers is not a tough task. You have to wholly sweep them and wash them with a explication of household detergent and warm water. Spots that are tougher will need more focus.

To remove oil stains, leave kitty litter on them overnight and subsequently sweep up. Rust stains are quiet difficult to remove. If the general process of cleaning pavers does not work, purchase a stock that is specifically designed for your paver.

Paint thinner helps in removing paint stains. Scrape out the stain meticulously with a rag. The area must then be cleaned thoroughly.

Pavers must be left to dry completely. A sealer specific to your paver should be applied. Periodic transfer of broken pavers, weeding and cleaning pavers will keep the area look new and fresh. Following the above mentioned tips and few other convenient ones is a primary aspect that you may need to bear in mind. Safety is prominent and hence wear eye and hand gear to protect your self.

5 Tips for Cleaning Pavers

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Monday, July 25, 2011

Fitting an Oil Pressure Warning Light to a first-rate Austin Healey 3000

Most contemporary cars have an orange oil pressure warning light to let you know if you are losing oil. But by the time it comes on it is probably too late and the damage is done. Many classic cars were fitted with an oil pressure gauge so that the driver could see what was truly happening. Some classics had both a gauge and an oil pressure just to make sure. Our Austin Healey had just the gauge but after an incident in 2009 I decided to fit a warning light as well.

Modern drivers aren't truly in control of their cars and know very dinky about what is happening under the bonnet. You have a temperature gauge so you can see if the car is over heating, other than that all things else is computer controlled with warning lights to let you know if the engine administration or Abs fails, or if the oil level is low, or worse if you lose pressure. Most drivers are used to being ensconced in a quiet, comfortable car, listening to loud music and completely ignoring what the car is doing, unless it tells them there is a problem.

3000 Psi

This was not the case on classic cars which had gauges to show whether the main systems were all working. A temperature gauge and fuel gauge of course but many of them were also fitted with rev counters and ammeters or battery gauges so the driver would know if the dynamo or alternator is charging properly. Many of them have an oil pressure gauge so the driver can monitor the oil pressure. The key word here is monitor.

Most engines run with oil pressures of whatever from 40 to 100 pounds per quadrilateral inch (psi). When an engine starts up the oil is cold and thick and the pressure will be high - maybe near the 100 psi mark. As the engine warms up, the oil thins out a bit and should decide down to around 40 to 60 psi depending on the engine. Oil pressure warning lamps tend to be set at about 5 to 10 psi, so if the light comes on you have virtually no oil pressure left and a major problem.

Most of our fleet of classic hire cars have pressure gauges fitted as appropriate and we do expound their function to the drivers when we take them out for a test drive at the start of their day's hire. On the rare occasions I have forgotten to mention this we have occasionally received a phone call later in the day when they have spotted that the pressure was lower than when they set off.

We had a singular situation originate on our Austin Healey 3000 while 2009. This is fitted with an oil pressure gauge but no warning light. To allow customers of all shapes and sizes to hire the car, we replaced the primary 16" diameter steering wheel with a 14" diameter wheel. This gives the driver more room to enter and exit the cars and it doesn't rub on the tops of their legs.

However with the primary steering wheel fitted, all the gauges together with oil pressure were visible inside the rim of the steering wheel. The 14" wheel meant that the oil pressure gauge was now obscured by the rim and the driver's left hand. When moving, the drivers would have to make a deliberate movement to see the gauge and this assumes they remember they ought to check it, when contemporary cars don't have such devices.

Our Healey advanced a dinky oil leak from one of the engine oil seals, as classic cars tend to. Not regularly a problem as I check the levels every time the car goes out on hire. Oil leaks by their nature tend to get worse rather than fix themselves so one day on checking the car over after it had been out on hire for a concentrate of days, I noticed that there was virtually no oil in it and when cornering the oil pressure would drop only to recover on the straight. This happens because the oil surges away from the pump pickup in the sump as the car turns one way, and flows back when it straightens up or turns the other way.

Many years ago in my youth I had a Triumph Spitfire with an oil leak. Being a lazy youngster I waited until the oil pressure gauge moved when going round a roundabout and treated this as a signal to top up the oil level. While that may have been appropriate on a Spitfire worth a few hundred pounds it is not a sensible coming on an Austin Healey worth over £20,000, particularly when the buyer probably won't notice the gauge anyway.

I had the oil seal replaced by my usual stable but asked them to add an oil pressure warning light as well. This is an easy sufficient procedure. The oil pressure gauge sensor screws into the engine block. This is removed and replace with a threaded brass T piece. The oil pressure gauge sensor is then fitted into one side of the T and the pressure sensor for the warning lamp fitted to the other side of the T. The convention is that oil warning lamps are orange so an orange light was fitted in the centre of the dashboard, next to the indicator warning light and wired to the sensor.

Now when the ignition is turned on, the oil lamp illuminates and goes off as soon as the engine is running. The oil pressure gauge still works as normal but even if it can't be seen behind the driver's left hand, he will know if there is a problem when he gets an orange light right in the middle of the eyes.

Fitting an Oil Pressure Warning Light to a first-rate Austin Healey 3000

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Sunday, July 24, 2011

Check Out Simpson Pressure Washer 3000 PSI 2.8 GPM #PS3000 for $656.99

Simpson Pressure Washer 3000 PSI 2.8 GPM #PS3000 Review


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Product Feature

  • Drive: Direct
  • GPM: 2.8
  • HP: HONDA GX200
  • PSI: 3000

Product Overview

Direct Drive Engine and Pump System; HONDA GX200 Engine; CAT Triplex Pump ; Adjustable unloader; Built-in chemical injector system; High pressure relief valve for operator safety; Thermal relief valve; Easy-start valve; 25 feet of abrasion and UV resistant high pressure hose; Heavy-Duty powder-coated steel frame; Steel front and rear handles; 13" Premium treaded pneumatic tires ; Professional spray gun and wand; Includes 5 Quick Connect nozzles: 0 deg., 15 deg., 25 deg., 40 deg. and Chemical Injector

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Friday, July 22, 2011

How To choose A Power Washer

Choosing from the vast estimate of power washers isn't easy so make sure you read this data to find the best power washer for your needs. Don't be intimidated by all of the terms and specifications, but recognize what facts you need to know to make a good firm decision. The most prominent thing to know about power washers is they must match the work you intend to do. Some power washers can be too large or suited then you have wasted money and you could damage what you are cleaning. If you're not right you may end up buying too many power washers because they are too small for your needs, it will also take too long to do the work and you will lose money. That is the uncomplicated truth.

Let's start by looking at the dissimilar choices you will have to make when buying power washers:

3000 Psi

1. Gasoline vs electric power washers

2. Hot Water vs Cold Water power washers

3. Psi vs Gpm vs Cu

4. Belt Drive vs Direct vs Gear Driven power washers

5. Movable vs Stationary power washers

6. Wobble vs Axial vs Camshaft Pump

7. Heavyweight vs Lightweight power washers

8. Home Model vs undertaker of a package deal Model power washers

Gasoline vs Electric: Most power washers are either powered by an electric motor or a gasoline engine. A few are diesel powered. electric power washers want wee maintenance and are very quiet. They want a source of power around (because the cord length is limited). They can be used indoors without any problem. You can have electric power washers with lots of power, but most electric power washers are small units designed for definite jobs, such as mobile detailing or deck cleaning. Gas power washers, on the other hand, can be very portable. They are designed for outdoor use and can be built to deliver tons of cleaning power. They can be somewhat loud, but your customers expect to hear some noise while you are working. Gas-powered power washers are used for cleaning concrete (called "flat work"), deck cleaning, fleet work, kitchen hoods and ducts, or any other power washing job that requires portability.

Hot Water vs Cold: Most power washers are cold water portables. Cold water, along with the right cleaners, can do most jobs. Some jobs, like removing heavy grease or stripping off finishes, just go great with hot water power washers. Hot water power washers will enable you to cut about 30% off the time it takes to do Any job. The power washing firm is all about time, not spending less on your tools. If you have the right tools, you can compete with other contractors and get done with each job in the shortest estimate of time. Many new power washing contractors make the mistake of under-buying their tools to save money. Most experienced power washing contractors over-buy their tools and make the variation back in no time with the added power and features. If all you are going to do is clean and seal wood, just buy one of the cold water power washers. If you are washing anyone else, such as houses or hoods or trucks or concrete, consider one of the hot water power washers. If you already own a cold water power washer and want to have hot water, you can call us and buy a "hot box" which will heat the water coming out of most cold water power washers.

Psi vs Gpm vs Cu: First of all, let's elucidate the acronyms. Psi stands for Pounds per quadrilateral Inch. This is the pressure rating used to rate power washers. Gpm stands for Gallons Per Minute, the flow rate of power washers. Cu stands for Cleaning Units, which is Psi multiplied by Gpm. All of these terms refer to the power put out from power washers.

To clean effectively, power washers must contribute 'agitation' to scrub off the dirt and 'flow' to rinse it away. Think of the pressure (Psi) as the agitation that is applied to the outside that you are cleaning and think of the flow (Gpm) as the rinsing force that carries the dirt away.

Homeowner's power washers tend to run between 1200 and 2700 Psi. Contractor-grade power washers tend to run between 3000 and 5000 Psi. More power means faster work, but more power also means more inherent for outside damage. Wood decks, for example, are often cleaned at pressure as low as 300 Psi because 3000 Psi will rip the wood to shreds. Most contractors will settle for 3000 Psi because that estimate of pressure is sufficient for most jobs. Truth is that most contractors would prefer to have 3500 or even 4000 Psi if they could get it.

Gpm is much more prominent to most contractors than Psi. Since most contractors use cleaning chemicals to do most of their power washing work (the fastest method) their job becomes one primarily of rinsing rather than washing. The cleaners do all of the cleaning, and the undertaker of a package deal rinses the dirt away. When you think about that method, you comprehend that the more flow you have, the faster the job is rinsed. Therefore, most experienced power washing contractors recognize that Gpm is more prominent to them than Psi.

Psi (power) will help you break the chemical bond between the cleaning outside and the dirt. Once the bond is broken, the extra Psi does nothing to speed up the cleaning time.

The higher the Gpm, however, the more outside area a power washer can clean. For example, a 2000-Psi model with a 2 Gpm flow rate might clean approximately 5-7 quadrilateral feet per minute. If the same unit had a 3 Gpm flow rate, it might clean 8-10 quadrilateral feet in the same estimate of time.

In this business, contractors sell "the finished job". The undertaker of a package deal who gets that job done in two hours might be production per hour. The guy who gets the same job done in one hour makes 0 per hour. Which one do you want to be?

Dealers of homeowner power washers like to refer to Cus when they show you power washers. This estimate is the supervene of multiplying the Psi by the Gpm. If you have power washers with 3000 Psi and 4 Gpm, you have 12000 Cus. For homeowner power washers, this is a good comparison of the power you are buying. For professionals, Cus have wee meaning. Gpm is most important, and Psi is less important, and the Cu recipe makes them both equal. The best clarification is to talk to a dealer who easily understands what you are trying to power wash because he will steer you to the right Gpm and Psi for the job.

Belt Drive vs Direct vs Gear Driven: The gasoline engines used for power washers all run at around 3450 Rpm. In Direct Drive power washers the pump is bolted to the machine shaft, so it spins at the same 3450 Rpm. In a belt drive unit, the machine is tied to the pump through pulleys and a belt and the speed of the pump is reduced to either 1700 Rpm or 1400 Rpm. In a gear-driven machine, the machine delivers power to a transmission that in turn spins the pump at a reduced speed (1700 Rpm).

Direct drive power washers exchange the vibration of the machine directly to the pump as well.

The faster pumps of direct drive power washers are spinning so fast that they cannot draw water from a tank or a lake very well. They tend to work fine when the water is forced into the machine (like when you hook it up to a hose from the house).

The slower sharp pumps (belt driven or gear driven) work less and wear less, so they tend to last many years longer. They will also pull water to the machine from a tank, so these power washers shouldn't ever be starved for water (a problem that results in destroying the pump).

Gear driven pumps still forward the machine vibration to the pump because everything is hard-bolted together. These kinds of power washers have not come to be popular since they were introduced because there is obviously one more part to break in the theory - the transmission.

Portable vs Stationary: Stationary power washers are used in car washes, factories, etc. They are installed in place and never move. Movable power washers are used by contractors who travel to the customer to do the work. There is a crossover model called a skid unit - stationary power washers designed to be installed on a trailer so they can be taken to the customer's site for the work. The most coarse power washers for contractors to use are cold water Movable power washers (for small residential work) and hot water skid units (for large market work or high-volume residential work).

Wobble vs Axial vs Camshaft Pump: Since your pump is the heart of your system, it is significant to understand what you are buying. Every pump constructor makes any grades of pumps - Good, Better, and Best.

The Wobble originate requires a piston to push against the pressure in the pump and the pressure of a spring. This is an uncostly originate to build, but it is relatively inefficient, too. This is the originate found on most homeowner power washers. It is designed to work for wee hours at a time and very wee hours per year, which is Ok for a homeowner but doubtful for a undertaker of a package deal who wants to power wash every day. Wobble pumps tend to last for around 300 hours before needing allembracing aid or replacement.

The Axial originate is similar to the wobble originate with a incorporate of prominent differences. Most axial pumps have larger oil reservoirs and bearings, which allow them to be used for longer periods of time and more hours per year. They still are inefficient (like the wobble) but any lower-priced contractor-grade machines work fine with the axial design. Axial pumps tend to last for about 600 hours before needing service.

The Camshaft originate delivers the most power and stamina of all these designs. It uses connecting rods on a cam with large bearings like a car engine, so it runs cooler and lasts longer. It is able to hold up to continuous use for hours and hours as long as it is kept cool. Cam pumps tend to run for 1000 hours before needing service, and tend to last 2000 hours before needing allembracing aid or replacement.

Heavyweight vs Lightweight: If you are buying Movable power washers, it makes sense to pay attention to the weight of the power washer. After all, you are the one who is going to lug it all around and move it into and out of your truck. Aluminum frames can be fragile, and steel frames can be heavy, so talk to your dealer about how you are going to transport the power washer. He may be able to steer you to a good clarification for your needs.

Home Model vs undertaker of a package deal Model: The final option for you to think about is durability. We have already discussed the variation in pumps, even from the same pump manufacturer. The cheapest power washers ordinarily have the cheapest pump, which won't hold up well for most contractors. There are other considerations that you need to think about, too.

The discontinue of power washers can be very important. Powder coating holds up great and lasts longer than painted frames. Steel frames rust. Aluminum or stainless doesn't. Aluminum can be bent, steel is very rigid. This singular option will vary depending on the power washers preference.

For power washers that will be used at least 20 hours per week and sometimes up to 8 hours in a day, the lower priced machines just won't last very long. They come with inadequate parts throughout, such as the unloaders, pumps, and even the engines. Just because it says "Honda", for example, doesn't mean that all Hondas are the same. This is where Grandpa's "you get what you pay for" saying easily is true.

If you buy a 0 power washer and you get six months use out of it, that buy cost you 0 per month. If you bought a name brand commercial-grade power washers of the same specifications for 00 and you got 5 years of use from it, that buy cost you per month. Which one is less expensive?

Let me communicate some of my own experiences. As a power washer and distributor, I see homeowners dragging in dead power washers that are only a few months old every week. These power washers cost more to fix than to replace, so my 'boneyard' is full of discarded homeowner power washers.

I recently sold two old power washers that I used when I was a undertaker of a package deal and didn't want any more. They were each 12 years old and each ran like a top. One had needed only routine maintenance over it's life. The other had to have the pump thoroughly rebuilt about three years ago. They were both belt-driven units with Ar pumps and Honda engines. I paid about 00 for each and sold them for about 0 each. When I added up all of the maintenance costs and the buy price and then subtracted what I got for them when I sold them, those power washers costs me about per month to own. Is there a great deal than that anywhere?

If the bottom line for you is how much cash you have to fork over right now, consider an alternative. A reputable dealer can get you high ability power washers
on a lease or finance contract. In the long run, you are great off with the great power washer. You will spend less of your cash today, and less over the life of the
power washer even with the interest added on.

How To choose A Power Washer

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Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Great Price NorTrac Heavy-Duty Welded Cylinder - 3000 PSI, 4in. Bore, 12in. Stroke

NorTrac Heavy-Duty Welded Cylinder - 3000 PSI, 4in. Bore, 12in. Stroke Review


Click To Buy Best Price from Amazon

Product Feature

  • NorTrac cylinder fits anywhere a traditional tie-rod cylinder fits
  • Compact design takes up less room
  • Welded design uses higher quality materials
  • Standard 1/2in. NPT port adapts to existing hydraulic system
  • Rod is chrome-plated and highly resistant to wear and corrosion

Product Overview

This heavy-duty NorTrac Welded Cylinder delivers the power of a tie-rod cylinder in a compact, long-lasting design that handles continuous loads of 3000 PSI. This feature-filled cylinder sports a ground and polished hard chrome-plated, cold rolled steel rod and a rugged AISI 1045 steel clevis ends for superior toughness. It offers a Hallite piston and rod seals and a precision honed 1/4in. steel tube cylinder wall that is 33% thicker than common tie-rod cylinders. Combine these world-class features and NorTrac's commitment to superior engineering and manufacturing processes and you have a cylinder that will deliver power and performance for the long term. Max. PSI: 3,000, Bore Diameter (in.): 4, Stroke Length (in.): 12, Closed Pin Center (in.): 22 1/4, Shaft Diameter (in.): 1.5

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Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Compressed Air Tanks - Taking Your Paintball Gun to New Levels of execution

Co2 has traditionally been the gas source of selection since the early days of paintball. The notion borrowed from bb guns and air pistols, paintball guns began using Co2 in the form of 12 gram disposable cartridges. Soon refillable Co2 tanks entered the scene, making the sport more affordable and enjoyable. Even though Co2 has done a lot for paintball, it is not without its drawbacks. When a Co2 tank is filled, it's done so with liquid Co2. In order for the liquid to be a usable air source it must be converted into a gas to power the marker. This conversion requires thermal energy or heat. This is the infer why paintball guns and bb guns that use Co2 will get cold when firing. When the mark gets cold and heat is less available, the conversion from liquid to gas may be incomplete. This can allow liquid Co2 to enter the internals of the mark causing freeze-ups and inconsistencies in operating pressure, length and accuracy.

Compressed air, aka Nitrogen, is the other customary propellant in paintball today. Unlike Co2, a compressed air paintball tank is filled with general air. They are sometimes called 'Nitro' tanks only because the air we breathe is primarily made up of nitrogen. A nitrogen paintball tank is made with special materials and designed to store very high pressure. A thorough Co2 tank will hold 850 psi of pressure. A compressed air tank can hold whether 3000 or 4500 psi of air, depending on the model that you choose. A special compressor is used to fill a nitrogen tank. They can also be filled using a support tank of higher pressure and a filling adapter system. All compressed air tanks have a regulator installed on them which brings the pressure exiting the tank down to a usable level for the paintball gun. Regulators can be factory set, fixed at whether high pressure (850 psi) or low pressure (400 psi). Some regulators are 'adjustable', allowing the user to set the production pressure to work with a number of distinct guns. Because compressed air is already in a usable form, no conversion is necessary. Therefore you will not touch coldness or freeze-up with compressed air. Paintball markers using compressed air are also more consistent in pressure and less affected by outside temperatures. This all equates to allembracing great performance.

3000 Psi

You can positively infer how many shots per fill you will get from a nitrogen paintball tank. As mentioned about, tanks come with a pressure rating of whether 3000 or 4500 psi. They are available in distinct sizes including 45ci, 68ci and 88ci. If your tank is rated at 3000 psi, simply many the size (ci) by 10 to estimate the number of shots per fill. For 4500 psi tanks, many the size by 15. For instance, a 68/3000 tank will give you an estimated 680 shots per fill (68 x 10).

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Compressed Air Tanks - Taking Your Paintball Gun to New Levels of execution

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Sunday, July 17, 2011

Check Out Brass Liquid Filled Gauges - 2 1/2 brss cb 0-3000psi

Brass Liquid Filled Gauges - 2 1/2 brss cb 0-3000psi Review


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Product Feature

  • Dia.=2 1/2 in, Connection Size=1/4 in NPT(M), Accuracy=1.5%, Operating Pressure=3000.

Product Overview

238-GLBRC3000 This item features: -Operating Temp.: 0 F [Min], 140 F [Max]. -Body Material: Brass. -Lens Material: Acrylic. -Display Type: Dial. -Type: Pressure.

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Friday, July 15, 2011

Check Out Powermate Black Max 3000psi

Powermate Black Max 3000psi Review


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Product Feature

  • 3000PSI/ 2.5GPM/ 190cc
  • 190cc Honda OHV gas engine
  • High flow axial pump
  • Includes 5 quick connect tips act to adjust pressure
  • 25' high pressure hose

Product Overview

190cc Honda OHV gas engine.Specifications 190cc Honda OHV gas engine 3000PSI/2.5GPM/190cc Compact storage Convenient storage area 25' high pressure hose Includes 5 quick connect tips 60x more powerful than a garden hose

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Thursday, July 14, 2011

Great Price Prince Manufacturing 3000 PSI Tie Rod Cylinder 3.5X10

Prince Manufacturing 3000 PSI Tie Rod Cylinder 3.5X10 Review


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Product Feature

  • 3000 PSI Tie Rod Cylinder
  • Bore Sizes 2" to 5"
  • Stroke sizes 4" to 48"
  • Honed Tubing. Heavy duty high strength tie rods
  • Royal Plate Plus plating on rod (except 2"). Flexible configurations

Product Overview

3000 PSI Tie-Rod Cylinders, Made in the USA, Bore sizes 2" to 5", Stroke sizes 4" to 48", Honed Tubing, Heavy duty, high strength tie rods, RoyalPlate Plus® plating on rod (except 2"), Flexible configurations, Exceptional paint performance-Aircraft quality two-part paint, 3 Year Cylinder Warranty and 7 Year Warranty on rods (see catalog for full details)

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Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Pvc and Hdpe - Similar Yet distinct

The incommunicable piping store in North America has seen titanic increase over the last 30 years in the use of thermoplastic materials. Benefits such as corrosion resistance, improved hydraulics, and reduced factory costs have been paying large dividends for owners of watermain, antiseptic and storm sewer systems.

The most widely used and suitable of this group of nonmetallic polymers is Polyvinyl Chloride, also known as 'Pvc' or 'vinyl'. Vinyl has a flourishing track-record in the application of incommunicable pipe dating back to the rebuilding of post-Wwi Germany. It has long been carefully to be one of the most durable polymers for both incommunicable and above-ground piping systems.

3000 Psi

Another thermoplastic used in the incommunicable pipe store is High-Density Polyethylene (Hdpe). This material has been used for well pipe, gas piping and drainage tubing before new entry into the watermain and sewage forcemain markets.

Hdpe and Pvc are remarkably similar in their nature of responses to such stress loadings as internal pressure and soil loads. Although responses are similar, they are not identical. In fact the magnitudes of their respective strengths are dramatically different.

This description is intended to research some of the similarities and differences between the construct of Pvc and Hdpe in terms of the application of incommunicable pressure piping.

Pressure Rating

The long-term pressure rating of a thermoplastic pipe is defined as the maximum internal pressure at which the pipe can operate continuously. The ratings of both Pvc and Hdpe are found using the Iso Equation for thermoplastics:

Equation (1) P = 2S / (Dr-1)

where P = pressure rating of the pipe

S = construct stress of pipe material

Dr = dimension ratio of the pipe, (Od/t)

The main discrepancy between Pvc and Hdpe pressure capacity lies in the value of the construct stress. For Pvc 1120 compounds, the construct stress is 2000 psi while that of Hdpe 3408 is only 800 psi. These construct stresses were both derived in exactly the same fashion. A factor of safety of 2.0 was applied to the long-term hydrostatic vigor (i.e. The Hydrostatic construct Basis - Hdb) of each material. The Hdb for Pvc 1120 is 4000 psi while that of Hdpe 3408 is 1600 psi.

The following examples explain the use of the Iso Equation to decree pressure ratings.

Example 1 - Find pressure ratings of Dr21 pipe for both (a) Pvc, and (b) Hdpe.

Solution - use equation (1)

P = 2S / (Dr-1)

(a) for Pvc, S = 2000 psi

Substituting, P = (2) x (2000 psi) / (21 - 1)

= 200 psi

(b) for Hdpe, S = 800 psi

Substituting, P = (2) x (800 psi) / (21 - 1)

= 80 psi

Example 2 - (a) Find the pressure rating of Pvc Dr41 and then (b) find the equivalent Dr of Hdpe to yield the same rating.

Solution - use equation (1)

(a) P = 2S / (Dr-1)

= (2 x 2000 psi) / (41-1)

= 100 psi

(b) rearranging equation (1),

Dr = (2S / P) + 1

= [(2 x 800 psi) / 100 psi] + 1

= 17

Therefore, to gather a 100 psi pressure pipe, the 2 options would be Pvc - Dr41 or Hdpe - Dr17.

The following points can be terminated from the above information:

(a) The ratio of Pvc to Hdpe in terms of tensile vigor is equal to the ratio of the construct stresses, i.e. 2000:800 which is 2.5:1, and
(b) The wall thickness of Hdpe must be 2.5 times thicker than that of Pvc to gather pipe with equal pressure ratings.

Below is a summary of long-term pressure ratings for both Pvc and Hdpe derived using the Iso Equation and a S.F. Of 2.0.

Table 1 - Pressure Ratings
Pvc Hdpe
Dr Rating (psi) Dr Rating (psi)
51 80 21 80
41 100 17 100
32.5 125 13.5 128
25 165 11 160
21 200 9 200
18 235 7.3 254
14 305 6.3 300

Although Csa B137.3, Awwa C905 and Astm D2241 all use a S.F. = 2.0, there is one Pvc suitable that uses a S.F. = 2.5, namely Awwa C900-97 (note - this suitable will soon be changing to be similar to Awwa C905). As well in this C900 standard, the pipe is further de-rated by a 2 ft/s surge. (Designers should not confuse the 'Pressure Class' terminology of C900 with the long-term ratings of Hdpe.) If one wishes to select a Hdpe pipe that is equivalent to a singular Pvc Pressure Class, the same construct criteria should be used to decree a Pressure Class of Hdpe. In other words, the construct stress must be derived using S.F. = 2.5, and the pipe must be de-rated with the surge of a 2 ft/s velocity. To decree equivalent pressure classes of Hdpe and Pvc, refer to Table 3 presented later in the text and use Equation (2) shown below.

Equation (2) P.C.= P'- 2 Ps

Where P.C. = pressure class of pipe

P' = pressure rating of pipe using S.F. = 2.5

Ps = surge pressure for 1 fps velocity change

Note: Ps for Pvc and Hdpe are given in Table 3.

Example 3 - (a) Find the pressure class of Dr25 Pvc and (b) find the Dr of Hdpe to give the same pressure class.

Solution - First solve for new construct stresses.

Pvc: S = Hdb / S.F.

= 4000 psi / (2.5)

= 1600 psi

Hdpe: S = Hdb / S.F.

= 1600 psi / (2.5)

= 640 psi

Now use equation (2) and the values of Table 3 to solve.

(a) Pvc Dr25

P.C. = [2S / (Dr-1)] - 2 Ps

= [(2)(1600 psi) / (25-1)] - (2)(14.7 psi)

= 100 psi

(b) Hdpe - trial and error using equation (2)

try Dr11,

P.C. = (2) (640 psi) / (11-1) - (2)(13.4 psi)

= 100 psi

Below is a table of minimum Dr's of Hdpe to be equivalent to the pressure classes of Pvc as defined in Awwa C900.

Table 2 - Pressure Class Dr's

Pressure Class (psi) Pvc-Dr Hdpe-Dr

100 25 11

150 18 7.3

200 14 6.3

Surges

Another titanic benefit of using thermoplastic piping is that surges created are lower than those linked with more rigid materials such as metallic or concrete cylinder pipe. The possible flexible nature of thermoplastics allows transient shock waves to be categorically dampened and absorbed. This minimizes surge effects on the whole system.

Positive pressure surges in pipelines can be approximated by using the following two equations.

Equation (3) a = 4660 / [1 + (k/E)(Dr-2)]^0.5

where,
a = wavespeed of surge wave (fps)
k = fluid bulk modulus (= 300 000 psi for water)
E = modulus of elasticity of pipeline material (psi)
Dr = dimension ratio (= Od/t)

Equation (4) Ps = aV / (2.31) g

where,
Ps = pressure surge (psi)
a = wavespeed (fps)
V = velocity (fps)
g = acceleration due to gravity

= 32.2 ft/s^2

The Modulus of Elasticity of Pvc 1120 at 73.4°F is 400 000 psi, while that for Hdpe 3408 is 115 000 psi. The table below summarizes the surge pressures improbable for every 1 ft/s instantaneous velocity convert in both Pvc and Hdpe. For velocities other than 1 ft/s, the surge will be equal to the values in the table multiplied by the actual velocity in ft/s (i.e. If V = 3 ft/s, surge = 3 times the table value for the given material and Dr).

Table 3 - One Ft/s Surges

Pvc Hdpe
(E=400 000 psi) (E=115 000 psi)

Dr Ps (psi) Dr Ps (psi)
51 10.8 21 8.8
41 11.4 17 9.9
32.5 12.8 13.5 11.3
25 14.7 11 12.7
21 16.0 9 14.3
18 17.4 7.3 16.3
14 19.8 6.3 17.9

Although Hdpe is by nature a more flexible material than is Pvc, the surges created in pipe of equivalent pressure ratings are very similar. For example, for a 100 psi pipeline, the surge created by a 1 ft/s velocity convert would be 11.4 psi for Dr41 Pvc and 9.9 psi for Dr17 Hdpe.

Overall, the surges for both materials are well below the values of metallic pipe which typically create surges of 50+ psi for every 1 ft/s instantaneous velocity change. Continuous pressure surges should not be ignored in any pressure pipeline design, regardless of material.

Buckling Resistance

The ability of a soil surrounding a flexible pipe to develop the pipe is numerically known as the Soil Stiffness (E'). E' numbers are derived empirically to record the ability of soil and degree of compaction as a 'psi' value. E' values are described in detail in standards Astm D 2321 or Csa B182.11. A brief summary is presented below.

Table 4 - Soil Stiffness

Soil Stiffness E' (psi) Material Compaction (S.P.D.)

3000 Manuf. Angular 90%

2000 Clean Sand/Gravel 90%

1000 Sand/Gravel/Fines 90%

500 Sand/Gravel/Fines 85%

Buckling may occur in any pipe if the total load in the inward direction (i.e. Static soil + traffic + vacuum) exceeds the vital buckling resistance of the pipe. A thermoplastic pipe must be designed to have enough vigor to resist inward structural collapse, or buckling. titanic vigor can be added to any pipe's resistance by having solid lateral soil maintain in the Haunch Zone of a buried pipe trench, i.e. A high soil stiffness.

Below is a summary of the vital buckling strengths of discrete Dr's of Pvc and Hdpe for (a) Pcr, an unsupported condition (i.e. Subaqueous or above-ground) and (b) Pb, a buried trench condition with a specified soil stiffness, E' (for this example, = 500 psi).

Table 5 - Buckling Strengths

Pvc Dr Pcr (psi) Pb (psi)

14 425.8 530.6

18 190.2 354.6

21 117.0 278.1

25 67.4 211.1

32.5 29.8 140.4

41 14.6 98.3

51 7.3 69.5

Hdpe Dr Pcr (psi) Pb (psi)

6.3 266.2 419.6

7.3 171.2 336.5

9 91.4 245.8

11 50.0 181.8

13.5 27.0 133.6

17 17.6 107.9

21 7.2 69.0

26 3.8 50.1

32.5 2.0 36.4

To research a typical situation, a pressure pipeline is buried 10 feet in soil with a density of 120 lb/ft^3 and subjected to a momentary negative 10 psi vacuum due to a transient shockwave. A total negative load of (-)18.3 psi would be created. As can be seen from the above table, this negative pressure would exceed some of the Pcr values of Pvc (Dr41 and 51) as well as Hdpe (Dr17, 21, 26 and 32.5). By having a minimum soil stiffness of 500 psi, the values of Pb for all Dr's of both materials will categorically exceed the total negative load and buckling will not occur.

If any of these pipes happened to have vital voids in their backfill, it is conceivable that buckling failure could occur. It is imperative that lower pressure rated thermoplastic pipe be installed so as to have a minimum soil stiffness, E', of 500 psi. Voids in the haunch maintain zone can be prevented by using permissible bedding material and light compaction. This point is especially relevant if ever considering assembling thermoplastic pipe above the trench and rolling it in before backfilling. Buckling is a situation far less likely to occur if the pipe is installed using a approved open trench with moderate compaction beside the pipe as the line factory progresses.

Summary

To do a suitable comparison of Pvc and Hdpe, many other factors would have to be carefully such as: material cost, factory cost, connection methods, and manufacturing test requirements. The designer should also ensure that each material has a flourishing track description for the application being considered.

This description has offered a snapshot comparison of the 2 thermoplastic materials used most often for pressure pipe in North America - Pvc and Hdpe. The capacity of each material was visible in terms of their pressure ratings, surge doing and buckling resistance to allow designer an equal comparison between Pvc and Hdpe.

Pvc and Hdpe - Similar Yet distinct

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Monday, July 11, 2011

mobile Pressure Washing - Foam Gun Wands Discussed

Every new mobile pressure washing entrepreneur marvels at the awesome tool available in the industry. It's naturally breathtaking really. Not long ago, I was discussing this fact, specifically how the industry has evolved over the years with high tech tool production the wash process sufficient and fast. Then just the other day man asked me a very good quiz, about the use of foam guns for cleaning outer surfaces of buildings.

"We use a foam cannon gun for our structure as it holds the detergent on long enough to dissolve the grime not to mention it looks impressive."

3000 Psi

Yes, the in-line induction soap guns look pretty cool especially when you're using a hot-water pressure washer. It approximately feels like Rambo because you have a lot of recoil on the gun, depending on your type of unloader and you are shooting steam - at night or when it's cold out, it looks like a flamethrower as the hot water mixes with the air as it shoots out under 3000 psi. Even more fun is to put on the zero tip, and pull the trigger.

Of course, if you are washing a lot of cars at a car lot you can't use anyone like this because you can't get in in the middle of the cars very well with a long gun and wand, you'll need to use just a gun with a 4 inch prolongation covered in rubber with a tip. Plus your hands get for real tired and cramped up pulling the trigger all the time, so you might try a ring on the gun to hold the trigger, or a tennis ball, or take off the trigger, it will save you from carpel tunnel, buying unloaders all the time, and increase the life of your pump too. Think on that one.

For cleaning structure you might note that the Sparklewash law works very good, I think it's one of the best I've ever seen for cleaning buildings. Of course, Landa makes a very neat foam gun, and so does Hydrotech. There are some very good manufacturers with these types of soap guns. Yes, they work very perfect for structure and truck trailers, you he is for real correct. Just use a collection expedient to secure the affluent, I all the time remind pressure washing business entrepreneurs doing cleaning covenant work.

Indeed, this industry has evolved in a lot of ways, and yet, much is still the same as some of the older Hotsy Pressure Washers in the late 50's and early 60's. It's a fun industry, with quite a bit of history actually. Please reconsider all this.

mobile Pressure Washing - Foam Gun Wands Discussed

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Sunday, July 10, 2011

How to narrative Your Gameplay From Your Psp

If you're wondering how to record video game play on your Psp then this probably will help you out. The agenda is custom Firmware Extender. The new version that comes out now is 2.2 which was recently released by Cpasjuste. The new version fixes bug from the old version. It fixes bug that prevented playback function from working and other old issues.

Also the new version has more functionality comparing to the old one. This allows users to take screen shots from Xmb or while playing a Umd game, you can also record your game play videos and way mass storage. Those are just some of the features for the new extender.

3000 Psi

The new version works perfectly with 3.90 m33 custom firmware only. Please take note of that.

You can download buyer Firmware Extender 2.2. Try Google crusade and you'll find plenty of download links.

How to install:
Download the Cfe 2.2 Copy the article to the root of your memory stick. You may adjust the cfe.config. Go to "mso:/seplugins/cfe". Enable cfe_vsh.prx and cfe_game.prx under the m33 saving menu in vsh, game and pops. Set Cpu speed to default under the m33 saving menu. Push "Note %2B Volume Down" on the Psp to see ready commands. (default config)

To record Game play Video:
On your computer, go to the portfolio "windowsremotejoy_gui" for linux go to "linuxremotejoy_gui or then embark on "start_remotejoy.bat". On your Psp push the capture button combo (default is Note%2Br). Get back to your computer then in the remote_gui windows press "c" on your keyboard to start capturing the video. Each frames will be saved as bmp in the capture folder. Make sure that you have plenty of space in your hard disk drive because capturing will take a lot of your space. Next is to encode *.bmps using your VirtualDub. Google it!That's it.. Enjoy capturing.

How to narrative Your Gameplay From Your Psp

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Friday, July 8, 2011

Check Out Lion Welded Hydraulic Cylinder - 3000 PSI, 2in. Bore, 16in. Stroke, Model# 644804

Lion Welded Hydraulic Cylinder - 3000 PSI, 2in. Bore, 16in. Stroke, Model# 644804 Review


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Product Feature

  • 3000 PSI working pressure; 6000 PSI proof
  • WH Series

Product Overview

Double-acting, double-ported welded tie rods are perfect for industrial, agricultural and contractor applications. Features chrome rod, crown piston seals with wear ring, hallite rod seals, double lug base end, threaded rod end with ductile rod clevis and 3/4-16 ORB (SAE 8) ports inline with pins. 1in pin hole size. Complete with pins and cotter pins. Max. PSI: 3,000, Bore Diameter (in.): 2, Stroke Length (in.): 16, Closed Pin Center (in.): 26 1/4, Shaft Diameter (in.): 1 1/8

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Thursday, July 7, 2011

Rv Winterizing Methods - To Blow Or Not to Blow?

Rv Winterizing Methods To Blow or Not to Blow? Using an air compressor to blow out your Rv water lines vrs winterizing with Rv antifreeze.

The deliberate upon rages on, as it has for years - Do I blow out the water lines with compressed air or use Rv antifreeze to winterize the Rv water system.

3000 Psi

Many people argue that they have "blown out my Rv water lines for umpteen years, and never had a problem"

This record is meant to express my opinion, as a certified Rv technician (15+ years), who has personally winterized in excess of 3000 Rv's over the years.

1. Compressed air does push most of the water out of the lines, but not all. Any remaining water does what water naturaly does - it runs downhill and collects in the lowest point. Rv plumbing has many up and downs as it runs through discrete cabinets and over discrete obstacles and the water that collects at these places will freeze.

2. The compressed air does not blow out the water that is inside the water pump. It can't do this because the pump has internal valves to forestall backflow and is designed this way.

3. Air compressor air can be dirty and contaminated with traces of oil - without a very good filter, do you want this in your water lines?

4. Rv water systems are designed to control at 45 Psi pressure - any air pressure used should be regulated to not exceed 45 Psi - you can't just run down to the gas middle point and use the tire filler to blow out your Rv lines!

5. Most Rvs will take about 2 gallons of antifreeze to winterize - at .50 or .00 a gallon, that's 5 or 6 bucks. And the time for whether recipe is about the same.

I live and work in central Bc, Canada where winter temperature go to -30 and lower. I have worked for 4 detach Rv dealers in my occupation and all of them use the antifreeze recipe to winterize the lot units. (maybe 100 to 300 Rvs per dealer!) The cost to winterize these units with antifreeze is substantial. If they could just "blow out the lines", don't you think they would do that?

The final option is up to you, of course, but I am reminded of that old Tv commercial slogan - "pay me now or pay me later!"

Rv Winterizing Methods - To Blow Or Not to Blow?

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Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Great Price Pressure Pro EE3530G Heavy Duty Professional 3,000 PSI 3.5 GPM 35 Amp 230 Volt Electric Powered Pressure Washer With General Pump

Pressure Pro EE3530G Heavy Duty Professional 3,000 PSI 3.5 GPM 35 Amp 230 Volt Electric Powered Pressure Washer With General Pump Review


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Product Feature

  • 7.5 Horsepower
  • Comes completely assembled
  • 50 foot 4000 pounds per square inch hose
  • 3/4-Inch cold rolled steel axle
  • Strong aluminum frame without any welds to fail

Product Overview

Pressure Pro EE3530G Professional 3000 PSI Electric Pressure Washer has revolutionary aircraft grade aluminum frame with dual handles. It has a 7.5 HP engine and can push 3 gallons per minute. It is 230 Volts and has a nice 12-foot cord. The 50 mesh inlet filter protects the engine from any unwanted dirt and has an easy to adjust pressure unloader and a low oil indicator shut down. The pneumatic tires are great for any surface with dual padded shock absorbing feet. The commercial grade engines provide long lasting run time and includes a thermo sensor to prevent overheating the unit and is good for washing vehicles, brightening wood, cleaning siding, removing stains and stripping paint.

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Sunday, July 3, 2011

Guide to Installing Rear Brakes on a Dodge Truck

If you have ever opinion how population change the rear brakes of their Dodge truck, then this narrative will elucidate how. When the truck has been properly tested and it has been found that the rear brakes precisely need replacement, then a required suggestion is to pick up a phone and call the nearest garage. Here are some options.

The First Option
Make an appointment with the auto mechanic, take your truck over there and tell the mechanic that you want to replace the rear brakes. Keep yourself busy in some reading activity while you wait. This is the easy way to deal with the problem. All that has to be done is write a check or pay through your credit card when the job is done.

3000 Psi

The Second Option
In case you determine to do the work in Diy style and you want to replace the rear brakes at home, then you would have to buy the brakes. There are five things which have to be considered: mechanical, sensor, electrical, fluids and drums. It is obviously economy to buy and setup the brakes at home by yourself rather than taking your Dodge truck to the assistance center or garage.

If you have ever installed rear brakes, then you will know the basics of doing this task. However it is a exiguous more complicated to change brakes on a Dodge truck. Any aspects have to be covered along with calipers, brake cylinder and wheel cylinder. The last aspect to be kept in mind is grease. Plenty of lubrication will be applied so make sure to have it in ample.

Get to Work
First, find a favorable place to work on your Dodge truck. Your stable will probably be the best place to change the brakes, this will keep away your worries about the weather. It will not be favorable to do the task in rain. The cold weather is an benefit for using a heated garage. In case you don't have a garage, then look for a location with a leveled surface, this is for avoiding rolling. The truck would have to be raised on blocks for getting it off the ground and stabilizing it. Then both the rear tires have to be removed. While doing all this, be sure that you are wearing old clothes because this work will get you all greasy.

Some grease would have to be used to loosen the brakes for removing them from the wheelbase. The longer it has been since the last change of brakes, the more difficult it will be removing them. When the rotors have been removed, then they would have to be turned. This would require extra equipment. The rotors should be plane and clean without any uneven face because it will add to the noise that is disliked at the traffic light. With any luck, you could not continue driving the truck after the brakes started manufacture squealing noises. There is also a possibility that the rotors may have got ruined. In this situation, there will be more cost as the rotors will need replacement.

Fortunately, the purchased brakes come with education manual. Putting the new brakes in allowable direction is important. The brake fluid and all the brake hoses must be checked. Every model has a distinct Psi, some have as high as 3000 Psi. So check the model and number of the vehicle. There will definitely be a problem if the brakes are put on backward. If you counter any complications, call the store from where you bought them.

Wrap up
The basic factory is not very difficult. Plainly take off the old brakes and apply some grease and replace with new ones. Then put back the tires and the job is done. In case you indulge in problems with the rotors and calipers then a expert has to be called.

Guide to Installing Rear Brakes on a Dodge Truck

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Saturday, July 2, 2011

Great Price General Pump Pressure Washer Pump - 4 GPM, 3000 PSI, 11 HP Required, Model# EZ3040G

General Pump Pressure Washer Pump - 4 GPM, 3000 PSI, 11 HP Required, Model# EZ3040G Review


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Product Overview

Fast changeover even in the field. Pre-plumbed and pre-tested. Fit 4-bolt engine face plates. Application: Pressure washer pump, GPM: 4, Max. PSI: 3,000, HP: 11, Shaft Diameter (in.): 1, Fuel Type: Gas

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Friday, July 1, 2011

Great Price 309515003 3000 psi PRESSURE WASHER HORIZONTAL PUMP

309515003 3000 psi PRESSURE WASHER HORIZONTAL PUMP Review


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Product Feature

  • Measurements:
  • 3/4" shaft up to 3" in legnth
  • Mounting holes are 2 5/8" center to center squared
  • Will work up to 3000 PSI

Product Overview

REPLACEMENT HORIZONTAL PRESSURE WASHER PUMP WORKS WITH ALL BRANDS OF PRESSURE WASHERS AND ENGINES AS LONG AS MEASUREMENTS ARE CORRECT - Max 3000psiMeasurements:3/4" shaft 1 9/16" deepMounting holes are 2 5/8" center to center squaredWill work up to 3000 PSI

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