Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Check Out Enerpac PA136 Pa136 3000psi 36.6cu" Air Hydraulic Power Pump

Enerpac PA136 Pa136 3000psi 36.6cu" Air Hydraulic Power Pump Review


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Product Feature

  • Package Quantity: (1) Unit
  • Type: Air-Hydraulic
  • Air Requirements Pounds Per Square Inch: 60-100 psi Air at 9 CFM
  • Pressure Rating (psi): 3,000
  • Usable Oil Capacity: 36 cu. in.
  • Valve Function: Advance/Hold/Retract
  • Used With Cylinder(S): Single Acting
  • Oil Capacity: 36

Product Overview

Air Powered Hydraulic Pumps Type: Air-Hydraulic Air Requirements Pounds Per Square Inch: 60-100 psi Air at 9 CFM Pressure Rating (psi): 3,000 Usable Oil Capacity: 36 cu. in.

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Tuesday, June 28, 2011

What You Need to Know About Heating theory Fuel Consumption - Part 1

Do you want to learn exactly why your heating theory burns more fuel than it should? Of policy you do, or you wouldn't have found this article. Following are answers to the questions you have, or ones you didn't know you had. I will construe (in defined technical terms) how your heating theory is likely to be costing more to heat your home or commercial construction than it should and what you can do to sell out those costs.

Anyone who drives an automobile knows that confident cars use less gas than others. The same is true for heating tool and like gas-guzzling Suvs, some heating systems consume titanic amounts of fuel. The dissimilarity in the middle of cars and heating systems is cars offer many benefits beyond the primary one of transportation. Cars have performance, comfort and optic appeal, as well as can be a status symbol. Heating systems are tucked away in a basement, attic or closet and their execution and execution are a strangeness to most not in the Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning (Hvac) trade, and still a strangeness to many in the trade - so-called, "professionals" (a term I use loosely throughout this article).

3000 Psi

To clarify, I may interchange the acronym Hvac for heating, and vice versa, but this report is about heating systems, how they work and how they often burn immoderate amounts of "fuel" - gas or oil.

Most construction owners know how to set the thermostat, turn air filters and check the fuel level on their heating fuel tank gauge, but that is about the extent of their heating theory knowledge. Typically, construction owners do not want to know how their heating theory works; it seems too complex and futile. They prefer to leave the technical aspects to the service personnel they have come to trust. Did I say "trust"? There are many reasons to scrutinize your trust for your heating service company, fuel supplier and general contractor if you are having a new construction constructed - residential or commercial.

For starters, do not assume that the professional you hire to design, install, service or pronounce your heating theory is noteworthy to make all the right decisions in those respective aspects of the Hvac trade. Just as in most professions, heating professionals are often types who could care less about the quantity of fuel a heating theory ends up moving and costing its owner; their paycheck at the end of the week is more leading to them. The majority of Hvac tradesmen have never been to school to learn the innumerable facets of the interrelated technologies. Moreover, many have never accomplished high school! But let's not get personal. Mostly, tradesmen have gathered their knowledge straight through hands-on experience. Perceive comes in two flavors: good and bad. If the on-the-job-training has been with lousy 'teachers', then the student will be a lousy apprentice and graduate to becoming a hopelessly old dog incapable of learning new tricks.

It's not only ignorance and bad attitude that have a hand in your fuel-hungry heating appliance's performance, though I wish it were. Deliberate sales of terribly inefficient heating tool plays a huge role. Sadly to say, American made boilers and furnaces are among the least productive in the world and continued sales of them certify that fuel companies will find you to be a great buyer - you will buy more fuel! Greed will often lead to corruption, with most of the corrupt getting away with it. This is a significant theorize for my writing this expose.

I have no specific desire to be confrontational with specific companies, though I know them well, but I can't close my eyes any longer, knowing that we are all heading toward a dead-end with our consumption of natural resources. Fossil fuels are limited, they say the planet is heating up and polar bears' extinction in 50 years is all but inevitable. But the more we consume the more we strip forever from the planet its resources and the little is left to meet the needs of its inhabitants in the future. Must we consume until we've proved that the human species is the most insidious sponge the planet has ever known? Do we only take and put nothing back? At least we can take less of the fuel we use to heat our homes, businesses and industries and save money as we do it.

As a precursor to understanding how your heating theory works, it is significant to understand the basic terms used in the industry, so let's start with the business players, then we'll move on to dispelling the strangeness surrounding the more technical aspects.

Fuel companies - "Fuel" is a general term I use to cover any fossil fuel type such as, fuel oil, kerosene, natural and liquefied petroleum gas (Lpg), methane, butane and any other petroleum-based gas types that I may not have listed here. Distributors of these fuels have one goal: to sell ("market") as much fuel as they can, to whoever will buy it and for the highest price. Period! They do not have your best economic interests in mind. They are the customary petroleum giants, names emblazoned on tractor trailer tanks barreling down highways; large publicly traded utilities and your local fuel enterprise with warm 'friendly' ads in the media. Fuel companies have the most to gain by inefficiently designing, installing and servicing your heating equipment. They want to deliver as much fuel at each delivery stop as possible. I know, I used to deliver fuel when I worked for fuel companies in the early 1980s.

Hvac Contractors - "Hvac" is a general term that is often misused and misapplied. Businesses that go under this heading tend to get complex with the factory and service of many areas of the indoor climate operate realm, and it is a broad one! Not only does Hvac mean heating, ventilation and air conditioning, but also humidity control, indoor air potential and refrigeration. This player in the trade is likely to be more incompetent than fraudulent when it comes to accurately designing, installing and servicing heating equipment.

Plumbing & Heating (P&H) companies - Many heating consumers are groomed straight through the ages to believe that plumbers are the same as heating technicians - they are not. The only thing plumbing and heating have in common is in the way pipes are related - threaded, soldered (sweated), welded, glued (cemented), and more recently, compressed together with enterprise specific connection means. P & H types rarely have mastered heating technology. I can spot a plumber-installed heating theory instantly. It's one thing to be a scholar at piping, which many plumbers are, it's an additional one issue altogether to know how the piped heating theory works.

Handyman - Knows a little bit more than a homeowner about heating systems.

Heating Technicians - This is who you want to work on your heating system, but not necessarily one from a fuel company. Heating technicians work for fuel companies and gas utilities/suppliers. "Buyer beware!" Only half of these guys are noteworthy to do a good job on your system. Still, only 10% are de facto good, master-types who are rarely stumped and who see the big photo - the primary theory establish is clear to them, the service history pops out like forensic science and they can make your theory work with little or nothing to work with.

The aforementioned list is comprised of the acceptable players in the trade, but only fuel companies sell fuel, design, install and service heating equipment, which is not to propose that all fuel companies partake in all aspects of the heating trade, nor am I saying that all fuel companies defraud their customers, most do not.

The case for burning less fuel can be de facto made if every person went out on the ocean in a boat and saw the sickening depth of pollution in our climate stretching across the water as far as the eye can see. I live on the Atlantic side of the States and the prevailing winds blow off the land, bringing with it the smog generated across the country. Otherwise, watch a sunset and marvel at the orange and red hues, for they are the supervene of pollutants and particulates in the climate that taint the natural color of sunlight.

Let us scrutinize what goes into our climate and our lungs when we breathe, when fossil fuels are burned. The byproducts of combustion of gas types and fuel oil include, but are not little to:

1. Flue Gas

2. Carbon Dioxide

3. Nitrogen Oxide

4. Nitrogen Dioxide

5. Sulphur Dioxide

6. Soot

7. Carbon Monoxide

The exhausting of these compounds into the earth's climate occurs constantly across the globe and proportionately to the estimate of fuel burned by heating equipment, internal combustion engines and commercial processes. The more fuel we burn, the more we conduce to the blend pollution of our home - Earth. Why, then, burn more fuel than necessary?

The following terms and definitions deal directly with heating theory apparatus and components.
British Thermal Unit (Btu) - The estimate of vigor required to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. British Thermal Units are expressed as a ratio to time -Btus per hour (written btus/hr., or Mbh, where M=the Roman numeral for 1,000; B=Btus; H=Hour, so expressed as 1000s of btus/hr. All heating tool is rated in Btu heating capacity. A typical residential furnace has a heating capacity of 100,000 Btus and can heat a 3,000 square foot modern house. These are approximate numbers, of course. For an strict Btu requirement to heat a construction a Heat Loss Calculation must be conducted (see definition for Heat Loss Calculation). Flue - The passageways that direct the byproducts of combustion out of a heating appliance. Burner - These come in many types, but we will restrict our discussion to Gun-Type, Sealed Combustion and Atmospheric, as these are most likely the kind that are in residential and commercial buildings. Burners mix #2 fuel oil, kerosene, Lpg or Natural gas with climate (air), then ignite and operate the combustion of their respective fuel types. Gun type burners can be seen protruding from the fronts of boilers and furnaces and burn gas and oil. Atmospheric gas burners are like the gas burner under a water pot on a kitchen stove - they are open to the atmosphere. Water heaters, Furnaces and Boilers use atmospheric and gun-type burners. Sealed Combustion burners are as their title implies, the combustion process is sealed tightly from the climate in which they are installed, like a basement, attic or closet. Sealed combustion burners take their combustion air from the outdoors straight through a plastic pipe and vent their products of combustion to the outdoors straight through a second pipe, usually made of Pvc (polyvinylchloride) or stainless steel. Gun-type and atmospheric burners ordinarily vent to the outdoors straight through a chimney or mechanical venting means, called a "power-venter". While Atmospheric burners are easy and inexpensive, Sealed Combustion burners are much more complex and expensive. Atmospheric burners are mid efficiency types, whereas Sealed Combustion burners are high efficiency types. Combustion room - A combustion room or, simply, a room is approximately all the time part and parcel of heating appliances that use a gun-type burner, and is internal to a furnace or boiler. Inside the room is where the actual fire while combustion of fuels takes place. An consideration door or window allows a technician partial view of the combustion process inside the chamber. Boiler - A cast iron or steel heat-generating vessel that utilizes water as a heat replacement medium to warm a space to a desired temperature. Boilers couple a burner which facilitates the combustion of fuels. Boilers can comprise a chamber, but don't always. Furnace - A Furnace includes a burner, most likely a combustion chamber, a heat exchanger, a blower or fan and has ducts related to it. The blower pulls "return air" from the conditioned space straight through a "return duct" and pushes it across the non-flue gas side of the heat exchanger. Once the relatively cold return air comes into Perceive with the very hot heat exchanger, the moving air picks up heat and is propelled toward the busy space straight through the provide duct and out diffusers and registers placed in the rooms to be heated. For sake of reference, furnaces have replaceable air filters, boilers do not. Heat Exchanger - A expedient that transfers heat from one medium (fire and flue gas) to that of another. Flue gas contains heat which is transferred straight through a steel, cast iron, aluminum or stainless steel fence (prior to exiting the appliance and up the flue) into a heat replacement medium separated by the heat exchanger barrier. For sake of our discussion, air, water and steam are the heat replacement mediums relevant to this report that replacement the heat from combustion to space in the construction to be heated. Conditioned Space - The space within a construction - residential or commercial - that is to be heated or air conditioned. We will deal with heating a conditioned space in this article. Hydronics - Hot water or steam heating technology. Forced Hot Water (Fhw) - Fhw heating systems comprise boilers (or sometimes water heaters) related by pipes to heating "terminal units" like radiators, baseboard convectors, hot water coils in an airstream and radiant floor heating tubes embedded in floors. Forced hot water systems supervene gravity hot water (Ghw) systems that were coal fired back in the day of their favorite use. Water is heated in a boiler and is then circulated, or forced with a 'pump' straight through pipes connecting the boiler to the final units where heat is rejected to the space to be conditioned. The hot water temperature is lessened by the cooler room air that surrounds the final units and the water is returned to the boiler to be reheated and re-circulated in a continuous cycle that only stops when the room thermostat is satisfied by the increasingly heated air. Forced Hot Air (Fha) - As in Fhw, a heat exchanger inside a furnace takes the heat generated by the combustion of fuel and transfers it to the busy space of a building, but straight through the duct of heated air inside provide and return ducts. Forced Hot Air implies the utilization of a furnace, whereas Forced Hot Water uses a boiler. Steam - This theory is the "Hydronic" cousin of forced hot water. Both replacement heat straight through water or water vapor - steam. Both comprise boilers that replacement heat from the fuel combustion process to the heat replacement medium - water or steam. Both comprise pipes and final units. Steam is created when water in the boiler boils and converts to steam if it is continually heated. Imagine a pot of water on a burner. The stove burner (gas or electric) heats the pot of water above it. Left long sufficient above the heat, the water boils and vaporizes upward. In the boiler the vapor rises up in voluminous pipes onward to cast iron radiators or baseboard. Steam seeks balance with the atmosphere. Hot vapor has greater pressure than cooler air, so rushes for the nearest exit in a steam theory into the lower pressure climate in the conditioned space. Press the "Schrader" valve stem on your car tire and high pressure air rushes out into the lower pressure climate - it's the same with steam in a heating system. Strategically placed air vents on radiators and condensate return lines allow the air above the water line in a steam theory to be forced out of the theory straight through them, but stop as the steam comes into Perceive with their internal mechanisms. Steam is the least productive heating type, as the water temperature must be raised above 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Whereas, hot water systems water temperature can be modulated based on the outdoor ambient air temperature. The warmer it is outside, the less temperature is needed in forced hot water theory water. Heat pumps, electrically heated boilers and baseboard element, wood and coal-fired boilers and furnaces, solar and any other theory types not fired by petroleum products, are not included in this article. Limit operate - This operate is also referred to as an "aquastat" in Fhw systems and a "Fan & Limit operate in Fha systems. Hybrid hydronic systems - a steam boiler with a Fhw loop (zone) also couple Limit Controls. Limit controls can pronounce low temperature and high temperature thresholds in a heating system. Limit Controls come in many dissimilar types and have a myriad of applications that need a specific type of Limit Control. Limit Controls are often the expedient that cause immoderate fuel consumption and are selected for this theorize by unethical fuel companies so your theory burns the maximum estimate of fuel your heating theory can perhaps burn. You will want to check the type of Limit operate on your heating system! Read on to find out why. Nozzle - The expedient in an oil burner that meters a specific estimate of fuel straight through it and converts the liquid fuel into a vapor that can be facilely mixed with air and ignited. Nozzles have 3 means of categorization: the estimate of fuel that passes straight through it in gallons per hour (Gph) @ 100 pounds per square inch (Psi) of fuel pump pressure; the angle of oil vapor spray that comes out of its orifice; and the spray pattern - solid, hollow, or somewhere in between. Those specifications are written as an example like 1.00-80-B. This means 1 gallon of oil will pass straight through the nozzle at 100 Psi, 80 degrees is the vapor spray angle and "B" is code for solid. Too high a Gph and your oil burner will over-fire your furnace or boiler and start and stop too often - "short-cycle". Burner Orifice - Like in oil burners, gas burners have metering devices and these are called burner orifices or burner "spud". The wrong burner orifice in a gas theory can be deadly, as gas is explosive and when it is not burned properly and in the strict proportion to air the outcome can be inefficient and downright dangerous. Gas burners have at least one orifice but can have many, sometime too many, as you will see later in this article. Heat Loss Calculation - Software programs exist to accept data input relative to a building's establish characteristics like window and door types, sizes and U-values, structure insulation R-values, room sizes and internal heat gain like citizen and appliances. Once this information is entered into the schedule the software calculates how many Btus are needed on the coldest day of the year to heat the construction to a establish temperature say, 68 degrees. There are no strict short cuts to a heat loss calculation. Anytime a new heating theory is designed it must first be preceded by an strict heat loss calculation. For all things related to allowable tool and component sizing and option is based on Btu generating and/or carrying capacity. Pipe diameters are little in how many Btus of vigor they can transport with water as its heat replacement medium, just as duct sizes are little in how many Btus they can transport with air as the medium.Let's apply these technical terms. For starters, let's create a scenario - you want to build a new house. The first thing you do is interview any construction contractors who call themselves a general contractor (Gc). A competent Gc will give you a container price for construction of all aspects and systems in the new house. He will hire and carry on all subcontractors from the electrician, to the plumber to the roofer, and the Hvac contractor. These tradesmen are subcontractors to the Gc. The residential construction trade is an highly contentious one and the profit margins are slim. The Gc knows this, so hires the citizen he thinks will produce acceptable potential at the bottom price. Unfortunately, most Gcs are highly unaware of the significance of allowable heating theory establish and the information that needs to be considered to produce the most productive establish for the money. He is also unaware of the significant steps complex with cranking out a professional design. It is the establish that determines the cost. Gcs often look at the cost only. As long as the heating theory "works", then the Gc is happy, even though he will never know that the theory will consume a lot more fuel than if it was competently designed in the first place. In fact, nobody will ever know that is, until a true competent professional figures it out, but then it is usually too late. Most would rather spend more money on fuel than replace the incorrectly designed system.

What You Need to Know About Heating theory Fuel Consumption - Part 1

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Monday, June 27, 2011

Koi Pond - Liners Vs professional construction

Why is there so much talk about pond liners? Which ones are Uv protected, or stronger, or last longer? I am by no means an devotee on liner technology, nor have I ever used them in my 30 years of designing and building waterfalls. If you're a "liner guy" disciple, I'm sure you're thinking, "Oh no, here he goes." To tell the truth, I have been minding my own business for over two decades, just watching, reading and listening to all the "experts."

I've listened to how "pond liners are uncomplicated to install," and "pond liners are inexpensive compared to concrete and steel," and "pond liners are quick to install." Or "pond liners last for 50 years," "pond liners bring higher profits to pond building and waterfall construction," and "liners don't contaminate the water with alkali as does concrete construction." Yes, I've almost sold myself on listening to the facts of the "experts." Well, not quite, due to a few facts of my own.

3000 Psi

So, a pond liner is guaranteed for 40 to 50 years? I would have to agree with that, as long as you leave it in the box the whole time. Too bad a liner manufacturer's warranty doesn't include damage from gophers, ground squirrels, chipmunks, rats or mice. Or tree, plant and weed roots. Or from stretching and punctures in the liner due to heavy rocks and other sharp objects. anticipated fact: a puncture only the size of a pin hole can cause a pond to lose one drip per second, or 5 gallons in just 24 hours. That's a pin hole, not a hole made by a pair of buck teeth on a burrowing mammal.

Imagine along with me for a minute. You have spent 0 on a pond develop and then ,000 of your hard-earned money for a pond and waterfall. This water highlight is impressive. They dug a big hole, piled up some dirt at one end, draped a large rubber liner over the whole thing, and settled giant boulders all nearby the fish pond and on the dirt mound. Smaller rocks fill in between the boulder and added rocks cover the liner in the pond. Now, it's two years later and you've just come home from a two-week vacation to find the pond half empty (or half full, if you're a positive person).

There must be a leak! How did this happen? Where is it? No problem, you think, I remember the salesman's pitch: "If you should ever get a leak, just clean off the area nearby the hole, dry it off, and using the directions enclosed in the patching kit, apply this patching material." But there's only one problem: Where is the leak? or leaks? How do I find them? And if I do find them, and I'm flourishing in patching them up, what's to keep it from leaking again?

Okay, I'm going to snap my fingers and you'll wake up. "Snap!" Surprise! That was only a thinking practice with a happy ending. It wasn't real! Or was it? Actually, it was. The short story you just heard was true. One out of every eight projects we do involves replacing the leaky liner for an angry fish pond/leaky liner owner.

Why am I ultimately speaking up now, after 30 years and well over 2,000 waterfalls and fish ponds? Because I'm angry, too! Not at the "liner guy" who sells the pond liners, but at his disciples nearby the country who are bragging how much money they make in just one or two days. I'm not upset at the fact that they make in two days what takes me six to seven days to make in constructing my fish ponds of rebar and 3000 psi concrete.

My ire stems from having to fee ,000 to replace a ,000 liner pond that lasted only two years. (A pond liner with padding didn't stop a tree root which traveled 25 feet to do its destructive work.) For only an added 16% in cost, that client could still be enjoying his traditional pond, stress-free, for his lifetime and that of his children and grandchildren and great-grandchildren.

The main features touted by pond liner promoters are simplicity, low cost, quick installation, and highly high profits. In an article published in his catalog/magazine of liners and accessories, the "liner messiah" has obviously taught his disciples well, as you can read in this excerpt:

"If you hire us to install your pond, you get a option of buying it with or without a stream. We offer no other choices! The pond we build covers an area of 11 by 16 feet, has a maximum depth of 2 feet, and a gorgeous waterfall. We'll build your pond in one day. The basic pond costs ,100 and if you want to join together the falls with a stream, you're finding at an extra ,000. That's it. End of story. No mas."

That's what Ernie Selles, president of Patio Ponds and disciple of the "liner guy," said. Other quote from Ernie in the same catalog is, "I get out of bed every morning and look transmit to going to work in a way that I never had before." I noticed he didn't mention how well he slept.

Let's do the math on Ernie's installation. The pond, stream, and waterfall cost is ,100. The actual sell cost of the kit is only ,000. ,100 behalf for only one day of labor. Notice: unlike our package, they offer no lights, no autofill, and the pond is only two feet deep. Yet three feet minimum are required for koi fish. A two foot pond affords no safety from predators such as raccoons and herons, and the shallow depth is affected assuredly by rapid climatic characteristic changes, causing undue stress on the pond's inhabitants. They do not like to develop ponds over two feet deep, because they are more susceptible to cave-ins.

We would build the same pond with a depth ranging from 3 to 4 feet, with no shallows for dining predators. It is constructed of rebar 18 inches on center with a shell of 3000 psi concrete (sidewalks and driveways are typically 2000 psi). This 7-sack, 60% pea with fiber mix is so dense that it's waterproof. However, we still coat it with ThoroSeal. The pond is qualified with two anti-vortex bottom suction drains, a skimmer to take off covering debris, and an out-of-pond pump that produces 5000 gallons per hour at only 2.6 amps, compared to the liner guy's pumps which are only 4200 gallons per hour at 7.6 amps - over twice the cost of energy! In addition, you have to pull his heavy cast iron monster pump out of the water to clean out debris.

We would also include a state of the art Aqua Ultraviolet filter and Uv light - the best money can buy. The liner guy's filter needs to be disassembled in order to clean it by hand. The Ultima Ii filter requires the uncomplicated turn of a handle to back flush the debris. This system has been operational in my water features for ten years with no problems. We include an ultraviolet light in our system that kills the bacteria that generate smells, kills pathogens that cause disease and algae spores that turn the water green. This light has a wiper arm that cleans the internal lens without the need to open the light.

We also offer an self-operating electronic water level operate system, the "AquaFill" by Aquamedia Corp. That keeps the water level of the pond constant. Pond liner installers use floats that are mechanical like the float in a toilet tank. Mechanical fillers can corrode and stick, causing overflows and even poisoning the fish with excess chlorinated water. However, the AquaFill does not stick or corrode.

Not only are all our ponds designed a minimum of three feet deep, we build caves for the turtles and fish to hide in. With pond liner construction, rocks cannot be cemented to the liner and consequently many are loose, creating a hazard if person were to step on them. Kids will be kids and I promise they will at last be running up and down the falls. We have no loose rock because they are all cemented in place with Aquamedia Mortar Mix, which is not only three times stronger than quarterly mortar, it is very dense. As a result, alkali will not leach out into the water and generate a pH problem. quarterly mortar mix is porous and water passes straight through the joints of the rock, carrying with it cement residue. This in turn creates stain trails high in pH, assuredly poisoning the fish.

In conclusion, as an educated customer, would you pay ,100 for a rubber pond liner or spend the same whole or a exiguous more to get a shell made of concrete and steel that not only would never leak, but would last for decades. So what are we as contractors finding for? Exorbitant profits or peace of mind with long-term, happy clients?

It is more enjoyable for me to get a call eight years down the road from a content client than to get a complaint of a leaky pond. What does the "liner guy" disciple say? "Sorry, we only have a one year warranty"? Or do they go back and take off all the rocks, pull out the pond liner, clean it, repair the leaks, and replace all the rocks and tool at no cost? Liners or expert installations?

You say pond liners are professionally installed. Then why is the very same liner kit sold to homeowners and do-it-yourselfers? The imagine is, it doesn't take an experienced expert to install one. All you need is "a organery hose and a shovel"!

Look before you leap, and ponder before you weep. Happy koi, peace and joy.

Koi Pond - Liners Vs professional construction

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Sunday, June 26, 2011

Check Out Simpson PowerShot PS4240S 4,200 PSI Honda GX390 Commercial Gas Powered Heavy Duty Pressure Washer for $999.99

Simpson PowerShot PS4240S 4,200 PSI Honda GX390 Commercial Gas Powered Heavy Duty Pressure Washer Review


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Product Feature

  • Triplex pump design with ceramic pistons, adjustable unloader and thermal relief valve
  • 5 Quick connect nozzles: 0,15,25,40,soap
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Simpson PowerShot PS4240S 4200 psi commercial gas pressure washer features Honda GX390 engine, tx series pump and quick connect steel lance.

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Saturday, June 25, 2011

Check Out AR Triplex Plunger Gas Flange, XMV3G30D, 3.0 GPM, 3000 PSI, 3400 RPM, 1" Shaft Ready Made Pressure Washer Pump

AR Triplex Plunger Gas Flange, XMV3G30D, 3.0 GPM, 3000 PSI, 3400 RPM, 1" Shaft Ready Made Pressure Washer Pump Review


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  • Triplex Plunger Pump Made Ready for easy replacement.
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Thursday, June 23, 2011

Great Price NorthStar Electric Cold Water Pressure Washer - 3000 PSI, 2.5 GPM, 230 Volt

NorthStar Electric Cold Water Pressure Washer - 3000 PSI, 2.5 GPM, 230 Volt Review


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  • 5 HP Leeson motor operates on dedicated 230V/30A circuit
  • Direct drive Cat 3DX pump w/brass manifold and ceramic plungers
  • Forged brass manifold gives improved strength over cheaper aluminum
  • Easy Start stops pressure build-up during start-up
  • Adjustable pressure for job versatility

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The NorthStar electric cold water pressure washer provides the power you need for cleaning pavement, siding, deck maintenance and general-purpose cleaning with the quick-couple nozzle and soap nozzle. Rear hose-entry spray gun with split lance keeps the hose out of the way for easy handling. 25 feet of high-pressure hose gives you great range. Direct-drive pump features brass manifold and ceramic plungers. U.S.A. Pressure (PSI): 3,000, Flow (GPM): 2.5, Motor: Leeson, HP: 5, Volts: 230, Amps: 30, Pump: Cat 3DNX, Drive: Direct, Gun: Consumer rear entry with 3ft. lance, Nozzle Type: Quick-connect 25deg and soap nozzle, Orifice Size: 3.0, Hose: 25ft. gray high-pressure, Coupler Size (in.): 3/8, Cart: push down cart with 10 pneumatic tires, Power Cord (ft.): 36ft. with GFCI protection, Max. Inlet Water Temp (deg F): 140, Chemical Injector: Yes, Adjustable Pressure: Yes, Pump Oil Type: SAE30 non-detergent oil, Pump Oil Included: Yes, Thermal Protector: Yes, Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 33 7/8 x 21 1/4 x 38

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Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Great Price NorthStar Professional Pressure Washer - 3000 PSI, 2.5 GPM, Model# 1578173

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  • Forged brass manifold gives improved strength over cheaper aluminum

Product Overview

NorthStar professional pressure washer combines industrial Honda engines with a premium-quality NorthStar direct drive triplex pump. Professional pressure washer is designed by Northern engineers to meet the demands of the professional and rental markets. Rear hose-entry spray gun with split lance keeps the hose out of the way for easy handling. Includes a long-lasting, non-marking steel-braided rubber hose. Pressure (PSI): 3,000, Flow (GPM): 2.5, Engine: Honda, Engine Model: GX160 OHV, Engine Displacement (cc): 163, Gross Torque: 7.6, Pump: NorthStar triplex, Drive: Direct, Gun: Industrial rear entry with 3ft. lance, Nozzle Type: Quick-connect 0deg , 15deg , 25deg , 40deg and soap nozzle, Orifice Size: 3, Hose: 50ft. gray high-pressure, Coupler Size (in.): 3/8, Cart: Push down with 10 pneumatic tires, Fuel Capacity (gal.): 0.83, Max. Inlet Water Temp (deg F): 140, Max. Output Water Temp (deg F): 140, Fuel Type: Gasoline, Chemical Injector: Yes, Adjustable Pressure: Yes, Engine Oil Type: SAE30 motor oil, Pump Oil Type: SAE30 non-detergent oil, Engine Oil Included: No, Pump Oil Included: Yes, Low Oil Shutdown: Yes, Thermal Protector: Yes, Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 34 x 21 x 38

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